makerspace.tulane.edu - User contributions [en]

Bambu X1 Series

2023-08-28T16:43:44Z

Bhermanoff: /* Design Considerations */

[[File:Bambulabs x1c with ams 1679805681 19510be9.jpg|400px|thumb|right]]
The X1 series specializes in speed like the [[Bambu P1 Series]]. Unlike the P1, the X1 has a few features that make it '''specially good for printing exotic filaments and combinations of filaments.'''

The speed of the X1 series allows for small prints to be completed in a matter of minutes, our [https://www.3dbenchy.com/ 3D Benchy] benchmark print is completed in '''under 14 minutes''' on a X1 series printer, while on an [[Creality Ender 3]] it usually takes 2 hours.

'''The X1 is reserved for special use cases, if you have a standard PLA print, its probably best to use the [[Bambu P1 Series]] or [[Creality Ender 3]]'''. PLA printing performance is identical on the X1 compared to P1.

== Printing ==
To print to a X1 series printer you must slice and send your file on the 3D printing PC. [[Printing with Orca Slicer]]

A previous print can be rerun using the built in file system, touch the folder icon on the left of the display and select the name of your previous print.

== AMS ==
[[File:Syncing Filaments from AMS.jpg|400px|thumb|right| In Orca Slicer, filaments can be synced to the project's filament options by going to the device screen, selecting the X1 printer, and then re-syncing from the filament panel.]]
The X1 features an AMS for loading up to 4 materials into the printer at once. This allows for complex multi-color and multi-filament prints.

It is important to note that abrasive and soluble filaments are '''not allowed''' to be loaded into the AMS. They will damage its internals and should be loaded via the normal spool holder at the back of the printer.

When a filament is loaded into the AMS, make sure to '''tell the printer what kind of filament it is'''. This can be done from the AMS panel on the printer's display.

== Design Considerations ==
[[File:Filamentcutter.png|thumb|left|The X1 series features a filament cutting attachment for its hotend. The front-left portion of the buildplate is reserved for this function. In Orca Slicer it is not possible to position objects in this area and will give an error.]]

== Buildplate ==
An important thing to note for the X1 is its buildplate. This plate is '''double sided,''' featuring a 'cool' and 'hot' plate. Refer to the markings on the plate for which side to use for your filament. The cool plate in particular also '''requires''' a layer of gluestick between your print and plate. '''Without gluestick your print will become permanently bonded to the plate.'''

Bambu P1 Series

2023-08-28T16:43:12Z

Bhermanoff:

[[File:P1srender.png|400px|thumb|right|The P1S and P1P are identical, save for a few accessories coming pre-installed]]
The P1 series are our newest fleet of FDM printers, and specialize in '''speed'''. Because of this, they are a great choice for rapid prototyping.

The speed of the P1 series allows for small prints to be completed in a matter of minutes, our [https://www.3dbenchy.com/ 3D Benchy] benchmark print is completed in '''under 14 minutes''' on a P1 series printer, while on an [[Creality Ender 3]] it usually takes 2 hours.

== Printing ==
To print to a P1 series printer you must slice and send your file on the 3D printing PC. [[Printing with Orca Slicer]]

A previous print can be rerun using the build in file system, select the folder icon on the left, open the '''cache''' folder, and select the name of your previous print.

== Design Considerations ==
[[File:Filamentcutter.png|thumb|none|The P1 series features a filament cutting attachment for its hotend. The front-left portion of the buildplate is reserved for this function. In Orca Slicer it is not possible to position objects in this area and will give an error.]]

== Buildplate ==
[[File:Peimacro.png|400px|thumb|left|Textured PEI sheets are made with micro perforations, leading to their excelent texture and adhesion. Hot plastic fills the pores of the surface and then contracts and loses adhesion when the bed cools. Hand oils can clog these pores, leading to poor adhesion.]]
Our P1 series printers feature textured PEI Beds. These allow for good adhesion and easy removal of objects.

To remove a print from the bed, lift the front edge up, and grab the rear tab with your other hand. '''only hold the plate via the tabs, hand oils ruin the bed!'''.

Flexing the bed both ways will detach the print from the bed.

Printing with Orca Slicer

2023-08-28T16:42:03Z

Bhermanoff:

[[File:Bambus.jpg|399px|thumb|left|Bambu Printer Shelf]]
[[File:Enders.jpg|450px|thumb|center|Ender Printer Shelf]]
The Ender printers are equipped each with their own OctoPrint Server. This server allows for prints to be sent directly from our 3D printing computer located next to the Ender Printers.
The Bambu P1 and X1 series printers are equipped with an onboard printserver through BambuCloud, '''OrcaSlicer can Print to any of our printers through these services.'''

We require that you slice and start printing from OrcaSlicer on our 3D printing computer, which is configured specifically for our printers.

== Creating or Opening a Project ==
[[File:OrcaMenu.jpg|thumb|none| Maybe you are designing a product, and are making multiple revisions are requiring the same settings. Saving a project file and just modifying the model inside the project may prove efficient.]]

From the Homescreen, you can create a new project, or open an existing one. Projects contain not just STL files, but all modified settings for a job.

== Adding Files ==
[[File:Orca new project.jpg|500px|thumb|none]]
With a blank (new) project, you will be presented with the '''Prepare Screen'''. One empty plate will be shown.

To start, drag your STL or 3MF file onto the new plate, or use File->Import.

You can position, rotate, scale, and mirror your print using the top tool panel. As well as autoarrange and duplicate models by right clicking them.

== Selecting Printer and Filament ==

The most important configuration that must be made is selecting the printer and filament type.

Find the printer you want, and set the profile at the top left of the screen. Bambu Printers all share profiles between their respective model, while Ender series are individual.'''If printing to a Bambu printer, you will select the exact printer # later.'''

[[File:Importantorcamenu.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Using the top bar, you can change the desired printer, filament type, and slicer settings. ]]
[[File:P1pbasic.jpg|200px|thumb|center| For example, if you wish to print to '''P1S-2''', you would first look behind the printer and take note of what filament is loaded. In this case it is be PLA Basic]]

Select an open printer from the dropdown list, and make sure you are setting all 4 dropdowns!
* '''Printer: The printer you are printing to!''' Note that for Bambu printers, the exact printer is not selected here, just make sure to get the model name right!
* '''Bed: The Bed type of the printer''' All our printers (except the [[Bambu X1 Series]]) use Textured PEI Beds.
* '''Filament: What's loaded!''' Make sure this is the same as what is loaded! We provide PLA for free, if you have a specific type or color of filament, bring your own in and ask a FabTech to load it for you!
* '''Print Profile''' This determines which print profile to base your slice settings off of. Standard is good for most! To learn more about slice settings keep reading.

== Slicing Settings ==

On the left panel of Orca are slicer settings. These determine many physical properties of your print, as well as the properties of the printer. '''If you are a beginner, and we recommend turning off the "advanced" slider on Orca, this will reduce accessible settings to the most changed ones.''' Talk to a FabTech to learn more about advanced features if you want to get a specific property out of your print.

=== Quality ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102018.jpg|140px|thumb|left]]
[[File:.1 vs .2 layer height.jpg|thumb|center|'''On the Left: .1mm layer height, On the Right: .2mm''' Notice the increased "stairstepping" on the hull and top surface of the boat]]
The '''Layer Height''' of a print determines the vertical resolution of your print, with a lower value taking more slices of the print. This drastically increases and decreases print time, and is the basis for most profiles.

=== Strength ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102034.jpg|200px|thumb|left]]
To decrease plastic use and print time, all of our prints are mostly hollow on the inside. To influence the properties of the inside your prints, you can change your infill settings.

'''Sparse infill density''' influences how much of your model is plastic on the inside. We recommend this be low unless you truly need a strong part. This setting will '''greatly''' increase print time and plastic usage.

[[File:15 vs 40 infill.jpg|400px|thumb|center|'''On the Left: 40% infill density. On the Right: 15% infill density''' Don't overdo infill! 15% is incredibly strong already! Don't waste plastic unless you have a very structural part.]]

==== Infill Patterns ====

'''Triangles''' is an infill pattern consisting of triangles, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the XY plane.

'''Gyroid''' is an infill pattern consisting of a rotating sine wave, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the Z axis.

'''Cubic''' is an infill pattern consisting of squares, this pattern is great if you are looking for a fast print speed, but still need the print to be relatively strong

'''Lightning''' is an infill pattern that models itself after an upside-down lightning bolt. This pattern uses close to no infill unless absolutely necessary! This is the fastest infill pattern, and is amazing if you just need a model that prints as fast as possible, or if you don't need your print to be strong and want to save plastic!

==== Walls ====

Walls are the outer-most section of your print, and are what you see on the outside. They also can influence the strength of your prints. '''If you opt to have thicker walls, you will have much stronger prints.''' If you have a print that has some smaller features that need to be strong, '''creating thicker walls can be much more effective than increasing infill''' for increasing part strength .

=== Supports ===
[[File:Support.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Supports on and off, these will be difficult to get off but are necessary for overhangs! The boat model doesn't have too much overhanging structure, so it probably isn't necessary here]]

'''If your print has any overhanging structure, you will need supports.''' We recommend using Tree supports if they are suitable for your print. Once you slice, you can check the preview to see if your tree supports support your print as necessary. Otherwise, you will need to use the default support structure.

Additionally, you can use the '''support painting tool''' along with (manual) support types to add or block supports onto specific regions of your print.

=== Build Plate Adhesion ===
Brim adds an extra bit of plastic on the first layer of your print. '''This can help with small objects not sticking to the bed and moving during printing.''' Orca Slicer has its '''auto brim setting on by default''', but if you find that you want to manually disable or enable a brim on a print you can do so from the '''other''' tab.

Having any Build Plate Adhesion settings turned on will decrease the available area to print on. '''If you need every last millimeter of the print bed, disable Build Plate Adhesion.
'''
== Sending Prints to a Printer ==
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102903.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Make sure to select the right printer! ]]
Once you slice your model, we recommend you '''take a look at the preview screen''' to see a preview of your print settings. You can drag the right side bar down to see inside your prints layers, and get a look at what your infill looks like.
'''This is also a great way to verify your supports are sufficient''' for your model.

After you have checked your preview, you can '''select "Print" from the top right'''. This will send your print to the printer you have selected, or prompt you to select a specific printer if its a Bambu.

Make sure to '''fill out a print card''' with your name, phone #, print name, duration, and start time.
[[File:Cardp1.JPG.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Stick around once you start your print, make sure the first layer goes down ok! Most failures happen in the first 10 min.]]

Printing with Orca Slicer

2023-08-28T16:39:55Z

Bhermanoff: /* Selecting Printer and Filament */

[[File:Bambus.jpg|399px|thumb|left|Bambu Printer Shelf]]
[[File:Enders.jpg|450px|thumb|center|Ender Printer Shelf]]
The Ender printers are equipped each with their own OctoPrint Server. This server allows for prints to be sent directly from our 3D printing computer located next to the Ender Printers.
The Bambu P1 and X1 series printers are equipped with an onboard printserver through BambuCloud, '''OrcaSlicer can Print to any of our printers through these services.'''

We require that you slice and start printing from OrcaSlicer on our 3D printing computer, which is configured specifically for our printers.

== Creating or Opening a Project ==
[[File:OrcaMenu.jpg|thumb|left| Maybe you are designing a product, and are making multiple revisions are requiring the same settings. Saving a project file and just modifying the model inside the project may prove efficient.]]

From the Homescreen, you can create a new project, or open an existing one. Projects contain not just STL files, but all modified settings for a job.

== Adding Files ==
[[File:Orca new project.jpg|500px|thumb|right]]
With a blank (new) project, you will be presented with the '''Prepare Screen'''. One empty plate will be shown.

To start, drag your STL or 3MF file onto the new plate, or use File->Import.

You can position, rotate, scale, and mirror your print using the top tool panel. As well as autoarrange and duplicate models by right clicking them.

 

== Selecting Printer and Filament ==

The most important configuration that must be made is selecting the printer and filament type.

Find the printer you want, and set the profile at the top left of the screen. Bambu Printers all share profiles between their respective model, while Ender series are individual.'''If printing to a Bambu printer, you will select the exact printer # later.'''

[[File:Importantorcamenu.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Using the top bar, you can change the desired printer, filament type, and slicer settings. ]]
[[File:P1pbasic.jpg|200px|thumb|center| For example, if you wish to print to '''P1S-2''', you would first look behind the printer and take note of what filament is loaded. In this case it is be PLA Basic]]

Select an open printer from the dropdown list, and make sure you are setting all 4 dropdowns!
* '''Printer: The printer you are printing to!''' Note that for Bambu printers, the exact printer is not selected here, just make sure to get the model name right!
* '''Bed: The Bed type of the printer''' All our printers (except the [[Bambu X1 Series]]) use Textured PEI Beds.
* '''Filament: What's loaded!''' Make sure this is the same as what is loaded! We provide PLA for free, if you have a specific type or color of filament, bring your own in and ask a FabTech to load it for you!
* '''Print Profile''' This determines which print profile to base your slice settings off of. Standard is good for most! To learn more about slice settings keep reading.

== Slicing Settings ==

On the left panel of Orca are slicer settings. These determine many physical properties of your print, as well as the properties of the printer. '''If you are a beginner, and we recommend turning off the "advanced" slider on Orca, this will reduce accessible settings to the most changed ones.''' Talk to a FabTech to learn more about advanced features if you want to get a specific property out of your print.

=== Quality ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102018.jpg|140px|thumb|left]]
[[File:.1 vs .2 layer height.jpg|thumb|center|'''On the Left: .1mm layer height, On the Right: .2mm''' Notice the increased "stairstepping" on the hull and top surface of the boat]]
The '''Layer Height''' of a print determines the vertical resolution of your print, with a lower value taking more slices of the print. This drastically increases and decreases print time, and is the basis for most profiles.

=== Strength ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102034.jpg|200px|thumb|left]]
To decrease plastic use and print time, all of our prints are mostly hollow on the inside. To influence the properties of the inside your prints, you can change your infill settings.

'''Sparse infill density''' influences how much of your model is plastic on the inside. We recommend this be low unless you truly need a strong part. This setting will '''greatly''' increase print time and plastic usage.

[[File:15 vs 40 infill.jpg|400px|thumb|center|'''On the Left: 40% infill density. On the Right: 15% infill density''' Don't overdo infill! 15% is incredibly strong already! Don't waste plastic unless you have a very structural part.]]

==== Infill Patterns ====

'''Triangles''' is an infill pattern consisting of triangles, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the XY plane.

'''Gyroid''' is an infill pattern consisting of a rotating sine wave, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the Z axis.

'''Cubic''' is an infill pattern consisting of squares, this pattern is great if you are looking for a fast print speed, but still need the print to be relatively strong

'''Lightning''' is an infill pattern that models itself after an upside-down lightning bolt. This pattern uses close to no infill unless absolutely necessary! This is the fastest infill pattern, and is amazing if you just need a model that prints as fast as possible, or if you don't need your print to be strong and want to save plastic!

==== Walls ====

Walls are the outer-most section of your print, and are what you see on the outside. They also can influence the strength of your prints. '''If you opt to have thicker walls, you will have much stronger prints.''' If you have a print that has some smaller features that need to be strong, '''creating thicker walls can be much more effective than increasing infill''' for increasing part strength .

=== Supports ===
[[File:Support.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Supports on and off, these will be difficult to get off but are necessary for overhangs! The boat model doesn't have too much overhanging structure, so it probably isn't necessary here]]

'''If your print has any overhanging structure, you will need supports.''' We recommend using Tree supports if they are suitable for your print. Once you slice, you can check the preview to see if your tree supports support your print as necessary. Otherwise, you will need to use the default support structure.

Additionally, you can use the '''support painting tool''' along with (manual) support types to add or block supports onto specific regions of your print.

=== Build Plate Adhesion ===
Brim adds an extra bit of plastic on the first layer of your print. '''This can help with small objects not sticking to the bed and moving during printing.''' Orca Slicer has its '''auto brim setting on by default''', but if you find that you want to manually disable or enable a brim on a print you can do so from the '''other''' tab.

Having any Build Plate Adhesion settings turned on will decrease the available area to print on. '''If you need every last millimeter of the print bed, disable Build Plate Adhesion.
'''
== Sending Prints to a Printer ==
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102903.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Make sure to select the right printer! ]]
Once you slice your model, we recommend you '''take a look at the preview screen''' to see a preview of your print settings. You can drag the right side bar down to see inside your prints layers, and get a look at what your infill looks like.
'''This is also a great way to verify your supports are sufficient''' for your model.

After you have checked your preview, you can '''select "Print" from the top right'''. This will send your print to the printer you have selected, or prompt you to select a specific printer if its a Bambu.

Make sure to '''fill out a print card''' with your name, phone #, print name, duration, and start time.
[[File:Cardp1.JPG.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Stick around once you start your print, make sure the first layer goes down ok! Most failures happen in the first 10 min.]]

Printing with Orca Slicer

2023-08-28T16:39:41Z

Bhermanoff: /* Adding Files */

[[File:Bambus.jpg|399px|thumb|left|Bambu Printer Shelf]]
[[File:Enders.jpg|450px|thumb|center|Ender Printer Shelf]]
The Ender printers are equipped each with their own OctoPrint Server. This server allows for prints to be sent directly from our 3D printing computer located next to the Ender Printers.
The Bambu P1 and X1 series printers are equipped with an onboard printserver through BambuCloud, '''OrcaSlicer can Print to any of our printers through these services.'''

We require that you slice and start printing from OrcaSlicer on our 3D printing computer, which is configured specifically for our printers.

== Creating or Opening a Project ==
[[File:OrcaMenu.jpg|thumb|left| Maybe you are designing a product, and are making multiple revisions are requiring the same settings. Saving a project file and just modifying the model inside the project may prove efficient.]]

From the Homescreen, you can create a new project, or open an existing one. Projects contain not just STL files, but all modified settings for a job.

== Adding Files ==
[[File:Orca new project.jpg|500px|thumb|right]]
With a blank (new) project, you will be presented with the '''Prepare Screen'''. One empty plate will be shown.

To start, drag your STL or 3MF file onto the new plate, or use File->Import.

You can position, rotate, scale, and mirror your print using the top tool panel. As well as autoarrange and duplicate models by right clicking them.

== Selecting Printer and Filament ==

The most important configuration that must be made is selecting the printer and filament type.

Find the printer you want, and set the profile at the top left of the screen. Bambu Printers all share profiles between their respective model, while Ender series are individual.'''If printing to a Bambu printer, you will select the exact printer # later.'''

[[File:Importantorcamenu.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Using the top bar, you can change the desired printer, filament type, and slicer settings. ]]
[[File:P1pbasic.jpg|200px|thumb|center| For example, if you wish to print to '''P1S-2''', you would first look behind the printer and take note of what filament is loaded. In this case it is be PLA Basic]]

Select an open printer from the dropdown list, and make sure you are setting all 4 dropdowns!
* '''Printer: The printer you are printing to!''' Note that for Bambu printers, the exact printer is not selected here, just make sure to get the model name right!
* '''Bed: The Bed type of the printer''' All our printers (except the [[Bambu X1 Series]]) use Textured PEI Beds.
* '''Filament: What's loaded!''' Make sure this is the same as what is loaded! We provide PLA for free, if you have a specific type or color of filament, bring your own in and ask a FabTech to load it for you!
* '''Print Profile''' This determines which print profile to base your slice settings off of. Standard is good for most! To learn more about slice settings keep reading.

== Slicing Settings ==

On the left panel of Orca are slicer settings. These determine many physical properties of your print, as well as the properties of the printer. '''If you are a beginner, and we recommend turning off the "advanced" slider on Orca, this will reduce accessible settings to the most changed ones.''' Talk to a FabTech to learn more about advanced features if you want to get a specific property out of your print.

=== Quality ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102018.jpg|140px|thumb|left]]
[[File:.1 vs .2 layer height.jpg|thumb|center|'''On the Left: .1mm layer height, On the Right: .2mm''' Notice the increased "stairstepping" on the hull and top surface of the boat]]
The '''Layer Height''' of a print determines the vertical resolution of your print, with a lower value taking more slices of the print. This drastically increases and decreases print time, and is the basis for most profiles.

=== Strength ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102034.jpg|200px|thumb|left]]
To decrease plastic use and print time, all of our prints are mostly hollow on the inside. To influence the properties of the inside your prints, you can change your infill settings.

'''Sparse infill density''' influences how much of your model is plastic on the inside. We recommend this be low unless you truly need a strong part. This setting will '''greatly''' increase print time and plastic usage.

[[File:15 vs 40 infill.jpg|400px|thumb|center|'''On the Left: 40% infill density. On the Right: 15% infill density''' Don't overdo infill! 15% is incredibly strong already! Don't waste plastic unless you have a very structural part.]]

==== Infill Patterns ====

'''Triangles''' is an infill pattern consisting of triangles, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the XY plane.

'''Gyroid''' is an infill pattern consisting of a rotating sine wave, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the Z axis.

'''Cubic''' is an infill pattern consisting of squares, this pattern is great if you are looking for a fast print speed, but still need the print to be relatively strong

'''Lightning''' is an infill pattern that models itself after an upside-down lightning bolt. This pattern uses close to no infill unless absolutely necessary! This is the fastest infill pattern, and is amazing if you just need a model that prints as fast as possible, or if you don't need your print to be strong and want to save plastic!

==== Walls ====

Walls are the outer-most section of your print, and are what you see on the outside. They also can influence the strength of your prints. '''If you opt to have thicker walls, you will have much stronger prints.''' If you have a print that has some smaller features that need to be strong, '''creating thicker walls can be much more effective than increasing infill''' for increasing part strength .

=== Supports ===
[[File:Support.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Supports on and off, these will be difficult to get off but are necessary for overhangs! The boat model doesn't have too much overhanging structure, so it probably isn't necessary here]]

'''If your print has any overhanging structure, you will need supports.''' We recommend using Tree supports if they are suitable for your print. Once you slice, you can check the preview to see if your tree supports support your print as necessary. Otherwise, you will need to use the default support structure.

Additionally, you can use the '''support painting tool''' along with (manual) support types to add or block supports onto specific regions of your print.

=== Build Plate Adhesion ===
Brim adds an extra bit of plastic on the first layer of your print. '''This can help with small objects not sticking to the bed and moving during printing.''' Orca Slicer has its '''auto brim setting on by default''', but if you find that you want to manually disable or enable a brim on a print you can do so from the '''other''' tab.

Having any Build Plate Adhesion settings turned on will decrease the available area to print on. '''If you need every last millimeter of the print bed, disable Build Plate Adhesion.
'''
== Sending Prints to a Printer ==
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102903.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Make sure to select the right printer! ]]
Once you slice your model, we recommend you '''take a look at the preview screen''' to see a preview of your print settings. You can drag the right side bar down to see inside your prints layers, and get a look at what your infill looks like.
'''This is also a great way to verify your supports are sufficient''' for your model.

After you have checked your preview, you can '''select "Print" from the top right'''. This will send your print to the printer you have selected, or prompt you to select a specific printer if its a Bambu.

Make sure to '''fill out a print card''' with your name, phone #, print name, duration, and start time.
[[File:Cardp1.JPG.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Stick around once you start your print, make sure the first layer goes down ok! Most failures happen in the first 10 min.]]

Printing with Orca Slicer

2023-08-28T16:39:20Z

Bhermanoff: /* Adding Files */

[[File:Bambus.jpg|399px|thumb|left|Bambu Printer Shelf]]
[[File:Enders.jpg|450px|thumb|center|Ender Printer Shelf]]
The Ender printers are equipped each with their own OctoPrint Server. This server allows for prints to be sent directly from our 3D printing computer located next to the Ender Printers.
The Bambu P1 and X1 series printers are equipped with an onboard printserver through BambuCloud, '''OrcaSlicer can Print to any of our printers through these services.'''

We require that you slice and start printing from OrcaSlicer on our 3D printing computer, which is configured specifically for our printers.

== Creating or Opening a Project ==
[[File:OrcaMenu.jpg|thumb|left| Maybe you are designing a product, and are making multiple revisions are requiring the same settings. Saving a project file and just modifying the model inside the project may prove efficient.]]

From the Homescreen, you can create a new project, or open an existing one. Projects contain not just STL files, but all modified settings for a job.

== Adding Files ==
[[File:Orca new project.jpg|500px|thumb|left]]
With a blank (new) project, you will be presented with the '''Prepare Screen'''. One empty plate will be shown.

To start, drag your STL or 3MF file onto the new plate, or use File->Import.

You can position, rotate, scale, and mirror your print using the top tool panel. As well as autoarrange and duplicate models by right clicking them.

== Selecting Printer and Filament ==

The most important configuration that must be made is selecting the printer and filament type.

Find the printer you want, and set the profile at the top left of the screen. Bambu Printers all share profiles between their respective model, while Ender series are individual.'''If printing to a Bambu printer, you will select the exact printer # later.'''

[[File:Importantorcamenu.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Using the top bar, you can change the desired printer, filament type, and slicer settings. ]]
[[File:P1pbasic.jpg|200px|thumb|center| For example, if you wish to print to '''P1S-2''', you would first look behind the printer and take note of what filament is loaded. In this case it is be PLA Basic]]

Select an open printer from the dropdown list, and make sure you are setting all 4 dropdowns!
* '''Printer: The printer you are printing to!''' Note that for Bambu printers, the exact printer is not selected here, just make sure to get the model name right!
* '''Bed: The Bed type of the printer''' All our printers (except the [[Bambu X1 Series]]) use Textured PEI Beds.
* '''Filament: What's loaded!''' Make sure this is the same as what is loaded! We provide PLA for free, if you have a specific type or color of filament, bring your own in and ask a FabTech to load it for you!
* '''Print Profile''' This determines which print profile to base your slice settings off of. Standard is good for most! To learn more about slice settings keep reading.

== Slicing Settings ==

On the left panel of Orca are slicer settings. These determine many physical properties of your print, as well as the properties of the printer. '''If you are a beginner, and we recommend turning off the "advanced" slider on Orca, this will reduce accessible settings to the most changed ones.''' Talk to a FabTech to learn more about advanced features if you want to get a specific property out of your print.

=== Quality ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102018.jpg|140px|thumb|left]]
[[File:.1 vs .2 layer height.jpg|thumb|center|'''On the Left: .1mm layer height, On the Right: .2mm''' Notice the increased "stairstepping" on the hull and top surface of the boat]]
The '''Layer Height''' of a print determines the vertical resolution of your print, with a lower value taking more slices of the print. This drastically increases and decreases print time, and is the basis for most profiles.

=== Strength ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102034.jpg|200px|thumb|left]]
To decrease plastic use and print time, all of our prints are mostly hollow on the inside. To influence the properties of the inside your prints, you can change your infill settings.

'''Sparse infill density''' influences how much of your model is plastic on the inside. We recommend this be low unless you truly need a strong part. This setting will '''greatly''' increase print time and plastic usage.

[[File:15 vs 40 infill.jpg|400px|thumb|center|'''On the Left: 40% infill density. On the Right: 15% infill density''' Don't overdo infill! 15% is incredibly strong already! Don't waste plastic unless you have a very structural part.]]

==== Infill Patterns ====

'''Triangles''' is an infill pattern consisting of triangles, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the XY plane.

'''Gyroid''' is an infill pattern consisting of a rotating sine wave, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the Z axis.

'''Cubic''' is an infill pattern consisting of squares, this pattern is great if you are looking for a fast print speed, but still need the print to be relatively strong

'''Lightning''' is an infill pattern that models itself after an upside-down lightning bolt. This pattern uses close to no infill unless absolutely necessary! This is the fastest infill pattern, and is amazing if you just need a model that prints as fast as possible, or if you don't need your print to be strong and want to save plastic!

==== Walls ====

Walls are the outer-most section of your print, and are what you see on the outside. They also can influence the strength of your prints. '''If you opt to have thicker walls, you will have much stronger prints.''' If you have a print that has some smaller features that need to be strong, '''creating thicker walls can be much more effective than increasing infill''' for increasing part strength .

=== Supports ===
[[File:Support.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Supports on and off, these will be difficult to get off but are necessary for overhangs! The boat model doesn't have too much overhanging structure, so it probably isn't necessary here]]

'''If your print has any overhanging structure, you will need supports.''' We recommend using Tree supports if they are suitable for your print. Once you slice, you can check the preview to see if your tree supports support your print as necessary. Otherwise, you will need to use the default support structure.

Additionally, you can use the '''support painting tool''' along with (manual) support types to add or block supports onto specific regions of your print.

=== Build Plate Adhesion ===
Brim adds an extra bit of plastic on the first layer of your print. '''This can help with small objects not sticking to the bed and moving during printing.''' Orca Slicer has its '''auto brim setting on by default''', but if you find that you want to manually disable or enable a brim on a print you can do so from the '''other''' tab.

Having any Build Plate Adhesion settings turned on will decrease the available area to print on. '''If you need every last millimeter of the print bed, disable Build Plate Adhesion.
'''
== Sending Prints to a Printer ==
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102903.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Make sure to select the right printer! ]]
Once you slice your model, we recommend you '''take a look at the preview screen''' to see a preview of your print settings. You can drag the right side bar down to see inside your prints layers, and get a look at what your infill looks like.
'''This is also a great way to verify your supports are sufficient''' for your model.

After you have checked your preview, you can '''select "Print" from the top right'''. This will send your print to the printer you have selected, or prompt you to select a specific printer if its a Bambu.

Make sure to '''fill out a print card''' with your name, phone #, print name, duration, and start time.
[[File:Cardp1.JPG.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Stick around once you start your print, make sure the first layer goes down ok! Most failures happen in the first 10 min.]]

Digital Tools Training

2023-08-28T16:38:03Z

Bhermanoff: /* Training Presentations */

[[File: Digital.png|200px|right]]
This is the basic training for use of the simpler digital rapid prototyping tools. The trainings provided here will describe how to use the following machines in the MakerSpace:

*[[3D Printing|3d Printers]]

*[[Laser Cutting|Laser Cutters]]

*[[Vinyl Cutting|Vinyl Cutter]]

*[[CNC Routing/Milling|Carvey CNC Router]]

*[[Scanning|The iSense 3d Scanner]]

*[[Scanning|The Peel Hi-Res 3d Scanner]]

===Training Presentations===
Read through the presentations linked below.

'''[[Printing with Orca Slicer|Using the 3D Printers]]'''

Recommended First Project - Download and print a small toy from [https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=toys&type=things&sort=relevant Thingiverse] or [https://www.printables.com/search/all?q=toys Printables].
[[File:Toys.jpg|200 px|left|thumb|frame|Toy models from [https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=toys&type=things&sort=relevant Thingiverse]]] 

'''[https://makerspace.tulane.edu/Uploads/Training/laserCutting_sp22/index.html Using the Laser Cutters]'''

Recommended First Project - Design and make a backpack tag to be cut out of plywood.
[[File:Walker_Tag.JPG|200 px|left|thumb|frame|Luggage tag made on laser cutter.]] 

'''[https://makerspace.tulane.edu/Uploads/Training/Digital_Tools-Vinyl_Cutter/index.html Using the Vinyl Cutter]'''

Recommended First Project - Make a sticker of a personal selfie.

'''[https://makerspace.tulane.edu/Uploads/Training/carvey_sp22/index.html Using the Carvey CNC Router]'''

Recommended First Project - Make a personal crest for yourself or your family.

'''[https://makerspace.tulane.edu/Uploads/Training/iSenseScanner_sp22/index.html Using the portable iSense 3d Scanner]'''

'''[https://makerspace.tulane.edu/Uploads/Training/Digital_Tools-Peel_3d_Scanner/index.html Using the Peel Hi-Res 3d Scanner]'''

Recommended First Project - Get a friend to help you scan your head.
[[File:Schuler_Scan.png|200 px|left|thumb|frame|Head scan using the iSense scanner.]]

Creality Ender 5

2023-08-28T16:36:54Z

Bhermanoff: Created page with "right The Ender 5 is a big printer! It's very similar in build to the Creality Ender 3 printers, and should be treated as just a lar..."

[[File:Ender 5 Plus.jpg|400px|thumb|right]]

The Ender 5 is a big printer! It's very similar in build to the [[Creality Ender 3]] printers, and should be treated as just a larger Ender 3. While the Bambu P1 series printers are fast, the enders offer slow but exceptional print quality. If you are planning on starting a print, and then coming back the next day to pick it up, the Enders are a great choice. '''The P1 series is for ultra-rapid prototyping, the Enders are for long and consistent printing'''

The bed size of our Ender 5 is 350mm X 350mm. The maximum print height is 400mm.

== Printing ==
See [[Printing with Orca Slicer]]
== Maintenance ==

For '''FabTechs only''', if a printer is acting up, take a look at [[Ender 3 Maintenance]].

File:Ender 5 Plus.jpg

2023-08-28T16:36:29Z

Bhermanoff:

Ender 5 Plus

Bambu X1 Series

2023-08-28T16:33:13Z

Bhermanoff: Created page with "right The X1 series specializes in speed like the Bambu P1 Series. Unlike the P1, the X1 has a few feat..."

[[File:Bambulabs x1c with ams 1679805681 19510be9.jpg|400px|thumb|right]]
The X1 series specializes in speed like the [[Bambu P1 Series]]. Unlike the P1, the X1 has a few features that make it '''specially good for printing exotic filaments and combinations of filaments.'''

The speed of the X1 series allows for small prints to be completed in a matter of minutes, our [https://www.3dbenchy.com/ 3D Benchy] benchmark print is completed in '''under 14 minutes''' on a X1 series printer, while on an [[Creality Ender 3]] it usually takes 2 hours.

'''The X1 is reserved for special use cases, if you have a standard PLA print, its probably best to use the [[Bambu P1 Series]] or [[Creality Ender 3]]'''. PLA printing performance is identical on the X1 compared to P1.

== Printing ==
To print to a X1 series printer you must slice and send your file on the 3D printing PC. [[Printing with Orca Slicer]]

A previous print can be rerun using the built in file system, touch the folder icon on the left of the display and select the name of your previous print.

== AMS ==
[[File:Syncing Filaments from AMS.jpg|400px|thumb|right| In Orca Slicer, filaments can be synced to the project's filament options by going to the device screen, selecting the X1 printer, and then re-syncing from the filament panel.]]
The X1 features an AMS for loading up to 4 materials into the printer at once. This allows for complex multi-color and multi-filament prints.

It is important to note that abrasive and soluble filaments are '''not allowed''' to be loaded into the AMS. They will damage its internals and should be loaded via the normal spool holder at the back of the printer.

When a filament is loaded into the AMS, make sure to '''tell the printer what kind of filament it is'''. This can be done from the AMS panel on the printer's display.

== Design Considerations ==
[[File:Filamentcutter.png|thumb|left]]
The X1 series features a filament cutting attachment for its hotend. The front-left portion of the buildplate is reserved for this function. In Orca Slicer it is not possible to position objects in this area and will give an error.

== Buildplate ==
An important thing to note for the X1 is its buildplate. This plate is '''double sided,''' featuring a 'cool' and 'hot' plate. Refer to the markings on the plate for which side to use for your filament. The cool plate in particular also '''requires''' a layer of gluestick between your print and plate. '''Without gluestick your print will become permanently bonded to the plate.'''

File:Bambulabs x1c with ams 1679805681 19510be9.jpg

2023-08-28T16:29:59Z

Bhermanoff:

Bambulabs x1c with ams

File:Syncing Filaments from AMS.jpg

2023-08-28T16:27:37Z

Bhermanoff:

In Orca Slicer, these filaments can be synced to the project's filament options by going to the device screen, selecting the X1 printer, and then re-syncing from the filament panel.

Bambu P1 Series

2023-08-28T16:15:14Z

Bhermanoff:

[[File:P1srender.png|400px|thumb|right|The P1S and P1P are identical, save for a few accessories coming pre-installed]]
The P1 series are our newest fleet of FDM printers, and specialize in '''speed'''. Because of this, they are a great choice for rapid prototyping.

The speed of the P1 series allows for small prints to be completed in a matter of minutes, our [https://www.3dbenchy.com/ 3D Benchy] benchmark print is completed in '''under 14 minutes''' on a P1 series printer, while on an [[Creality Ender 3]] it usually takes 2 hours.

== Printing ==
To print to a P1 series printer you must slice and send your file on the 3D printing PC. [[Printing with Orca Slicer]]

A previous print can be rerun using the build in file system, select the folder icon on the left, open the '''cache''' folder, and select the name of your previous print.

== Design Considerations ==
[[File:Filamentcutter.png|thumb|left]]
The P1 series features a filament cutting attachment for its hotend. The front-left portion of the buildplate is reserved for this function. In Orca Slicer it is not possible to position objects in this area and will give an error.

== Buildplate ==
[[File:Peimacro.png|400px|thumb|left|Textured PEI sheets are made with micro perforations, leading to their excelent texture and adhesion. Hot plastic fills the pores of the surface and then contracts and loses adhesion when the bed cools. Hand oils can clog these pores, leading to poor adhesion.]]
Our P1 series printers feature textured PEI Beds. These allow for good adhesion and easy removal of objects.

To remove a print from the bed, lift the front edge up, and grab the rear tab with your other hand. '''only hold the plate via the tabs, hand oils ruin the bed!'''.

Flexing the bed both ways will detach the print from the bed.

Bambu P1 Series

2023-08-28T16:12:35Z

Bhermanoff:

[[File:P1srender.png|400px|thumb|right|The P1S and P1P are identical, save for a few accessories coming pre-installed]]
The P1 series are our newest fleet of FDM printers, and specialize in '''speed'''. Because of this, they are a great choice for rapid prototyping.

The speed of the P1 series allows for small prints to be completed in a matter of minutes, our [https://www.3dbenchy.com/ 3D Benchy] benchmark print is completed in '''under 14 minutes''' on a P1 series printer, while on an [[Creality Ender 3]] it usually takes 2 hours.

== Printing ==
To print to a P1 series printer you must slice and send your file on the 3D printing PC. [[Printing with Orca Slicer]]

A previous print can be rerun using the build in file system, select the folder icon on the left, open the '''cache''' folder, and select the name of your previous print.

== Design Considerations ==
[[File:Filamentcutter.png|thumb|left]]
The P1 series features a filament cutting attachment for its hotend. The front-left portion of the buildplate is reserved for this function. In Orca Slicer it is not possible to position objects in this area and will give an error.

== Buildplate ==
[[File:Peimacro.png|400px|thumb|center|Textured PEI sheets are made with micro perforations, leading to their excelent texture and adhesion. Hot plastic fills the pores of the surface and then contracts and loses adhesion when the bed cools. Hand oils can clog these pores, leading to poor adhesion.]]
Our P1 series printers feature textured PEI Beds. These allow for good adhesion and easy removal of objects.

To remove a print from the bed, lift the front edge up, and grab the rear tab with your other hand. '''only hold the plate via the tabs, hand oils ruin the bed!'''.

Flexing the bed both ways will detach the print from the bed.

File:Filamentcutter.png

2023-08-28T16:11:56Z

Bhermanoff:

Filament Cutter Reserved Space

File:Peimacro.png

2023-08-28T15:53:06Z

Bhermanoff:

a textured PEI build plate up close

File:P1srender.png

2023-08-28T15:40:17Z

Bhermanoff:

p1s

Printing with Orca Slicer

2023-08-28T01:32:30Z

Bhermanoff: /* Strength */

[[File:Bambus.jpg|399px|thumb|left|Bambu Printer Shelf]]
[[File:Enders.jpg|450px|thumb|center|Ender Printer Shelf]]
The Ender printers are equipped each with their own OctoPrint Server. This server allows for prints to be sent directly from our 3D printing computer located next to the Ender Printers.
The Bambu P1 and X1 series printers are equipped with an onboard printserver through BambuCloud, '''OrcaSlicer can Print to any of our printers through these services.'''

We require that you slice and start printing from OrcaSlicer on our 3D printing computer, which is configured specifically for our printers.

== Creating or Opening a Project ==
[[File:OrcaMenu.jpg|thumb|left| Maybe you are designing a product, and are making multiple revisions are requiring the same settings. Saving a project file and just modifying the model inside the project may prove efficient.]]

From the Homescreen, you can create a new project, or open an existing one. Projects contain not just STL files, but all modified settings for a job.

== Adding Files ==
[[File:Orca new project.jpg|500px|thumb|center]]
With a blank (new) project, you will be presented with the '''Prepare Screen'''. One empty plate will be shown.

To start, drag your STL or 3MF file onto the new plate, or use File->Import.

You can position, rotate, scale, and mirror your print using the top tool panel. As well as autoarrange and duplicate models by right clicking them.

== Selecting Printer and Filament ==

The most important configuration that must be made is selecting the printer and filament type.

Find the printer you want, and set the profile at the top left of the screen. Bambu Printers all share profiles between their respective model, while Ender series are individual.'''If printing to a Bambu printer, you will select the exact printer # later.'''

[[File:Importantorcamenu.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Using the top bar, you can change the desired printer, filament type, and slicer settings. ]]
[[File:P1pbasic.jpg|200px|thumb|center| For example, if you wish to print to '''P1S-2''', you would first look behind the printer and take note of what filament is loaded. In this case it is be PLA Basic]]

Select an open printer from the dropdown list, and make sure you are setting all 4 dropdowns!
* '''Printer: The printer you are printing to!''' Note that for Bambu printers, the exact printer is not selected here, just make sure to get the model name right!
* '''Bed: The Bed type of the printer''' All our printers (except the [[Bambu X1 Series]]) use Textured PEI Beds.
* '''Filament: What's loaded!''' Make sure this is the same as what is loaded! We provide PLA for free, if you have a specific type or color of filament, bring your own in and ask a FabTech to load it for you!
* '''Print Profile''' This determines which print profile to base your slice settings off of. Standard is good for most! To learn more about slice settings keep reading.

== Slicing Settings ==

On the left panel of Orca are slicer settings. These determine many physical properties of your print, as well as the properties of the printer. '''If you are a beginner, and we recommend turning off the "advanced" slider on Orca, this will reduce accessible settings to the most changed ones.''' Talk to a FabTech to learn more about advanced features if you want to get a specific property out of your print.

=== Quality ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102018.jpg|140px|thumb|left]]
[[File:.1 vs .2 layer height.jpg|thumb|center|'''On the Left: .1mm layer height, On the Right: .2mm''' Notice the increased "stairstepping" on the hull and top surface of the boat]]
The '''Layer Height''' of a print determines the vertical resolution of your print, with a lower value taking more slices of the print. This drastically increases and decreases print time, and is the basis for most profiles.

=== Strength ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102034.jpg|200px|thumb|left]]
To decrease plastic use and print time, all of our prints are mostly hollow on the inside. To influence the properties of the inside your prints, you can change your infill settings.

'''Sparse infill density''' influences how much of your model is plastic on the inside. We recommend this be low unless you truly need a strong part. This setting will '''greatly''' increase print time and plastic usage.

[[File:15 vs 40 infill.jpg|400px|thumb|center|'''On the Left: 40% infill density. On the Right: 15% infill density''' Don't overdo infill! 15% is incredibly strong already! Don't waste plastic unless you have a very structural part.]]

==== Infill Patterns ====

'''Triangles''' is an infill pattern consisting of triangles, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the XY plane.

'''Gyroid''' is an infill pattern consisting of a rotating sine wave, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the Z axis.

'''Cubic''' is an infill pattern consisting of squares, this pattern is great if you are looking for a fast print speed, but still need the print to be relatively strong

'''Lightning''' is an infill pattern that models itself after an upside-down lightning bolt. This pattern uses close to no infill unless absolutely necessary! This is the fastest infill pattern, and is amazing if you just need a model that prints as fast as possible, or if you don't need your print to be strong and want to save plastic!

==== Walls ====

Walls are the outer-most section of your print, and are what you see on the outside. They also can influence the strength of your prints. '''If you opt to have thicker walls, you will have much stronger prints.''' If you have a print that has some smaller features that need to be strong, '''creating thicker walls can be much more effective than increasing infill''' for increasing part strength .

=== Supports ===
[[File:Support.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Supports on and off, these will be difficult to get off but are necessary for overhangs! The boat model doesn't have too much overhanging structure, so it probably isn't necessary here]]

'''If your print has any overhanging structure, you will need supports.''' We recommend using Tree supports if they are suitable for your print. Once you slice, you can check the preview to see if your tree supports support your print as necessary. Otherwise, you will need to use the default support structure.

Additionally, you can use the '''support painting tool''' along with (manual) support types to add or block supports onto specific regions of your print.

=== Build Plate Adhesion ===
Brim adds an extra bit of plastic on the first layer of your print. '''This can help with small objects not sticking to the bed and moving during printing.''' Orca Slicer has its '''auto brim setting on by default''', but if you find that you want to manually disable or enable a brim on a print you can do so from the '''other''' tab.

Having any Build Plate Adhesion settings turned on will decrease the available area to print on. '''If you need every last millimeter of the print bed, disable Build Plate Adhesion.
'''
== Sending Prints to a Printer ==
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102903.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Make sure to select the right printer! ]]
Once you slice your model, we recommend you '''take a look at the preview screen''' to see a preview of your print settings. You can drag the right side bar down to see inside your prints layers, and get a look at what your infill looks like.
'''This is also a great way to verify your supports are sufficient''' for your model.

After you have checked your preview, you can '''select "Print" from the top right'''. This will send your print to the printer you have selected, or prompt you to select a specific printer if its a Bambu.

Make sure to '''fill out a print card''' with your name, phone #, print name, duration, and start time.
[[File:Cardp1.JPG.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Stick around once you start your print, make sure the first layer goes down ok! Most failures happen in the first 10 min.]]

Printing with Orca Slicer

2023-08-28T01:32:05Z

Bhermanoff:

[[File:Bambus.jpg|399px|thumb|left|Bambu Printer Shelf]]
[[File:Enders.jpg|450px|thumb|center|Ender Printer Shelf]]
The Ender printers are equipped each with their own OctoPrint Server. This server allows for prints to be sent directly from our 3D printing computer located next to the Ender Printers.
The Bambu P1 and X1 series printers are equipped with an onboard printserver through BambuCloud, '''OrcaSlicer can Print to any of our printers through these services.'''

We require that you slice and start printing from OrcaSlicer on our 3D printing computer, which is configured specifically for our printers.

== Creating or Opening a Project ==
[[File:OrcaMenu.jpg|thumb|left| Maybe you are designing a product, and are making multiple revisions are requiring the same settings. Saving a project file and just modifying the model inside the project may prove efficient.]]

From the Homescreen, you can create a new project, or open an existing one. Projects contain not just STL files, but all modified settings for a job.

== Adding Files ==
[[File:Orca new project.jpg|500px|thumb|center]]
With a blank (new) project, you will be presented with the '''Prepare Screen'''. One empty plate will be shown.

To start, drag your STL or 3MF file onto the new plate, or use File->Import.

You can position, rotate, scale, and mirror your print using the top tool panel. As well as autoarrange and duplicate models by right clicking them.

== Selecting Printer and Filament ==

The most important configuration that must be made is selecting the printer and filament type.

Find the printer you want, and set the profile at the top left of the screen. Bambu Printers all share profiles between their respective model, while Ender series are individual.'''If printing to a Bambu printer, you will select the exact printer # later.'''

[[File:Importantorcamenu.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Using the top bar, you can change the desired printer, filament type, and slicer settings. ]]
[[File:P1pbasic.jpg|200px|thumb|center| For example, if you wish to print to '''P1S-2''', you would first look behind the printer and take note of what filament is loaded. In this case it is be PLA Basic]]

Select an open printer from the dropdown list, and make sure you are setting all 4 dropdowns!
* '''Printer: The printer you are printing to!''' Note that for Bambu printers, the exact printer is not selected here, just make sure to get the model name right!
* '''Bed: The Bed type of the printer''' All our printers (except the [[Bambu X1 Series]]) use Textured PEI Beds.
* '''Filament: What's loaded!''' Make sure this is the same as what is loaded! We provide PLA for free, if you have a specific type or color of filament, bring your own in and ask a FabTech to load it for you!
* '''Print Profile''' This determines which print profile to base your slice settings off of. Standard is good for most! To learn more about slice settings keep reading.

== Slicing Settings ==

On the left panel of Orca are slicer settings. These determine many physical properties of your print, as well as the properties of the printer. '''If you are a beginner, and we recommend turning off the "advanced" slider on Orca, this will reduce accessible settings to the most changed ones.''' Talk to a FabTech to learn more about advanced features if you want to get a specific property out of your print.

=== Quality ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102018.jpg|140px|thumb|left]]
[[File:.1 vs .2 layer height.jpg|thumb|center|'''On the Left: .1mm layer height, On the Right: .2mm''' Notice the increased "stairstepping" on the hull and top surface of the boat]]
The '''Layer Height''' of a print determines the vertical resolution of your print, with a lower value taking more slices of the print. This drastically increases and decreases print time, and is the basis for most profiles.

=== Strength ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102034.jpg|200px|thumb|left]]
To decrease plastic use and print time, all of our prints are mostly hollow on the inside. To influence the properties of the inside your prints, you can change your infill settings.

'''Sparse infill density''' influences how much of your model is plastic on the inside. We recommend this be low unless you truly need a strong part. This setting will '''greatly''' increase print time and plastic usage.

[[File:15 vs 40 infill.jpg|400px|thumb|center|'''On the Left: 40% infill density. On the Right: 15% infill density''' Don't overdo infill! 15% is incredibly strong already! Don't waste plastic unless you have a very structural part.]]

<big>Infill Patterns</big>

'''Triangles''' is an infill pattern consisting of triangles, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the XY plane.

'''Gyroid''' is an infill pattern consisting of a rotating sine wave, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the Z axis.

'''Cubic''' is an infill pattern consisting of squares, this pattern is great if you are looking for a fast print speed, but still need the print to be relatively strong

'''Lightning''' is an infill pattern that models itself after an upside-down lightning bolt. This pattern uses close to no infill unless absolutely necessary! This is the fastest infill pattern, and is amazing if you just need a model that prints as fast as possible, or if you don't need your print to be strong and want to save plastic!

==== Walls ====

Walls are the outer-most section of your print, and are what you see on the outside. They also can influence the strength of your prints. '''If you opt to have thicker walls, you will have much stronger prints.''' If you have a print that has some smaller features that need to be strong, '''creating thicker walls can be much more effective than increasing infill''' for increasing part strength .

=== Supports ===
[[File:Support.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Supports on and off, these will be difficult to get off but are necessary for overhangs! The boat model doesn't have too much overhanging structure, so it probably isn't necessary here]]

'''If your print has any overhanging structure, you will need supports.''' We recommend using Tree supports if they are suitable for your print. Once you slice, you can check the preview to see if your tree supports support your print as necessary. Otherwise, you will need to use the default support structure.

Additionally, you can use the '''support painting tool''' along with (manual) support types to add or block supports onto specific regions of your print.

=== Build Plate Adhesion ===
Brim adds an extra bit of plastic on the first layer of your print. '''This can help with small objects not sticking to the bed and moving during printing.''' Orca Slicer has its '''auto brim setting on by default''', but if you find that you want to manually disable or enable a brim on a print you can do so from the '''other''' tab.

Having any Build Plate Adhesion settings turned on will decrease the available area to print on. '''If you need every last millimeter of the print bed, disable Build Plate Adhesion.
'''
== Sending Prints to a Printer ==
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102903.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Make sure to select the right printer! ]]
Once you slice your model, we recommend you '''take a look at the preview screen''' to see a preview of your print settings. You can drag the right side bar down to see inside your prints layers, and get a look at what your infill looks like.
'''This is also a great way to verify your supports are sufficient''' for your model.

After you have checked your preview, you can '''select "Print" from the top right'''. This will send your print to the printer you have selected, or prompt you to select a specific printer if its a Bambu.

Make sure to '''fill out a print card''' with your name, phone #, print name, duration, and start time.
[[File:Cardp1.JPG.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Stick around once you start your print, make sure the first layer goes down ok! Most failures happen in the first 10 min.]]

Printing with Orca Slicer

2023-08-28T01:29:55Z

Bhermanoff:

[[File:Bambus.jpg|399px|thumb|left|Bambu Printer Shelf]]
[[File:Enders.jpg|450px|thumb|center|Ender Printer Shelf]]
The Ender printers are equipped each with their own OctoPrint Server. This server allows for prints to be sent directly from our 3D printing computer located next to the Ender Printers.
The Bambu P1 and X1 series printers are equipped with an onboard printserver through BambuCloud, '''OrcaSlicer can Print to any of our printers through these services.'''

We require that you slice and start printing from OrcaSlicer on our 3D printing computer, which is configured specifically for our printers.

== Creating or Opening a Project ==
[[File:OrcaMenu.jpg|thumb|left| Maybe you are designing a product, and are making multiple revisions are requiring the same settings. Saving a project file and just modifying the model inside the project may prove efficient.]]

From the Homescreen, you can create a new project, or open an existing one. Projects contain not just STL files, but all modified settings for a job.

== Adding Files ==
[[File:Orca new project.jpg|500px|thumb|center]]
With a blank (new) project, you will be presented with the '''Prepare Screen'''. One empty plate will be shown.

To start, drag your STL or 3MF file onto the new plate, or use File->Import.

You can position, rotate, scale, and mirror your print using the top tool panel. As well as autoarrange and duplicate models by right clicking them.

== Selecting Printer and Filament ==

The most important configuration that must be made is selecting the printer and filament type.

Find the printer you want, and set the profile at the top left of the screen. Bambu Printers all share profiles between their respective model, while Ender series are individual.'''If printing to a Bambu printer, you will select the exact printer # later.'''

[[File:Importantorcamenu.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Using the top bar, you can change the desired printer, filament type, and slicer settings. ]]
[[File:P1pbasic.jpg|200px|thumb|center| For example, if you wish to print to '''P1S-2''', you would first look behind the printer and take note of what filament is loaded. In this case it is be PLA Basic]]

Select an open printer from the dropdown list, and make sure you are setting all 4 dropdowns!
* '''Printer: The printer you are printing to!''' Note that for Bambu printers, the exact printer is not selected here, just make sure to get the model name right!
* '''Bed: The Bed type of the printer''' All our printers (except the [[Bambu X1 Series]]) use Textured PEI Beds.
* '''Filament: What's loaded!''' Make sure this is the same as what is loaded! We provide PLA for free, if you have a specific type or color of filament, bring your own in and ask a FabTech to load it for you!
* '''Print Profile''' This determines which print profile to base your slice settings off of. Standard is good for most! To learn more about slice settings keep reading.

== Slicing Settings ==

On the left panel of Orca are slicer settings. These determine many physical properties of your print, as well as the properties of the printer. '''If you are a beginner, and we recommend turning off the "advanced" slider on Orca, this will reduce accessible settings to the most changed ones.''' Talk to a FabTech to learn more about advanced features if you want to get a specific property out of your print.

=== Quality ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102018.jpg|140px|thumb|left]]
[[File:.1 vs .2 layer height.jpg|thumb|center|'''On the Left: .1mm layer height, On the Right: .2mm''' Notice the increased "stairstepping" on the hull and top surface of the boat]]
The '''Layer Height''' of a print determines the vertical resolution of your print, with a lower value taking more slices of the print. This drastically increases and decreases print time, and is the basis for most profiles.

=== Strength ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102034.jpg|200px|thumb|left]]
To decrease plastic use and print time, all of our prints are mostly hollow on the inside. To influence the properties of the inside your prints, you can change your infill settings.

'''Sparse infill density''' influences how much of your model is plastic on the inside. We recommend this be low unless you truly need a strong part. This setting will '''greatly''' increase print time and plastic usage.

[[File:15 vs 40 infill.jpg|400px|thumb|center|'''On the Left: 40% infill density. On the Right: 15% infill density''' Don't overdo infill! 15% is incredibly strong already! Don't waste plastic unless you have a very structural part.]]

<big>Infill Patterns</big>

'''Triangles''' is an infill pattern consisting of triangles, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the XY plane.

'''Gyroid''' is an infill pattern consisting of a rotating sine wave, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the Z axis.

'''Cubic''' is an infill pattern consisting of squares, this pattern is great if you are looking for a fast print speed, but still need the print to be relatively strong

'''Lightning''' is an infill pattern that models itself after an upside-down lightning bolt. This pattern uses close to no infill unless absolutely necessary! This is the fastest infill pattern, and is amazing if you just need a model that prints as fast as possible, or if you don't need your print to be strong and want to save plastic!

<big>Walls</big>

Walls are the outer-most section of your print, and are what you see on the outside. They also can influence the strength of your prints. '''If you opt to have thicker walls, you will have much stronger prints.''' If you have a print that has some smaller features that need to be strong, '''creating thicker walls can be much more effective than increasing infill''' for increasing part strength .

=== Supports ===
[[File:Support.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Supports on and off, these will be difficult to get off but are necessary for overhangs! The boat model doesn't have too much overhanging structure, so it probably isn't necessary here]]

'''If your print has any overhanging structure, you will need supports.''' We recommend using Tree supports if they are suitable for your print. Once you slice, you can check the preview to see if your tree supports support your print as necessary. Otherwise, you will need to use the default support structure.

Additionally, you can use the '''support painting tool''' along with (manual) support types to add or block supports onto specific regions of your print.

=== Build Plate Adhesion ===
Brim adds an extra bit of plastic on the first layer of your print. '''This can help with small objects not sticking to the bed and moving during printing.''' Orca Slicer has its '''auto brim setting on by default''', but if you find that you want to manually disable or enable a brim on a print you can do so from the '''other''' tab.

Having any Build Plate Adhesion settings turned on will decrease the available area to print on. '''If you need every last millimeter of the print bed, disable Build Plate Adhesion.
'''
== Sending Prints to a Printer ==
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102903.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Make sure to select the right printer! ]]
Once you slice your model, we recommend you '''take a look at the preview screen''' to see a preview of your print settings. You can drag the right side bar down to see inside your prints layers, and get a look at what your infill looks like.
'''This is also a great way to verify your supports are sufficient''' for your model.

After you have checked your preview, you can '''select "Print" from the top right'''. This will send your print to the printer you have selected, or prompt you to select a specific printer if its a Bambu.

Make sure to '''fill out a print card''' with your name, phone #, print name, duration, and start time.
[[File:Cardp1.JPG.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Stick around once you start your print, make sure the first layer goes down ok! Most failures happen in the first 10 min.]]

Bambu P1 Series

2023-08-28T01:21:41Z

Bhermanoff: Created page with "frameless"

[[File:Bambus.jpg|frameless]]

3D Printing

2023-08-28T01:20:45Z

Bhermanoff:

[[File:3dprintexample.JPG|250px|thumb|right|Example of a 3D print on the [[LulzBot TAZ 5]], immediately after completion]]
3D printing is a modern rapid prototyping technique in which a solid object is created through a layered deposition process. 3D printing is referred to as an "additive manufacturing" technique, as instead of taking material away from a stock piece in order to create a desired object, such as in milling or turning manufacturing techniques, the material for the object is added by the printing process. 3D printing techniques make it very simple to quickly create both complex and simple objects.

The 3D printers available in the MakerSpace are all Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) printers, meaning that to create the desired part, molten polymer (melted plastic) is "extruded" into a thin molten filament, which is deposited in the desired shape. The hot plastic fuses with previously deposited layers, creating the desired part. Due to the nature of molten plastic, FFF 3d printed parts have a degree of "slop" that is difficult to eliminate, so a different manufacturing technique, such as [[laser cutting]] or [[CNC Routing/Milling]], is likely necessary for parts that require very high degrees of accuracy.

The Tulane MakerSpace contains [https://www.creality.com/pages/products?collection=Ender+Series&spm=..index.header_1.1&spm_prev=..product_ce00868d-efe2-4fa8-9168-240e7c3b3cd1.header_1.1 Creality Ender] and [https://bambulab.com/en BambuLab P1 and X1 Series] 3d printers with heated beds to allow for any extruded 1.75mm filament. ABS filament allows for better [[finishing effects]] (such as [[Finishing_effects#Smoothing|smoothing]]), but PLA provides a more rigid part and has has much better adherence to the print bed. There are other advantages and disadvantages to both. Cost is the same (currently ~$18 per kg). The Makerspace currently supplies free PLA for use, other filaments and specific colors should be user supplied.

While ABS and PLA are the most commonly used filaments, many other products exist with special qualities (flexible) or appearance (wood, ceramic). There is a good summary and comparison at [https://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare MatterHackers]. MakerSpace users wishing to try out these filaments should procure them and work with a Fab Tech to load them onto the printer.

The standard [[slicing software]] favored for these printers is [[Printing with Orca Slicer|Orca Slicer]], which allows you to arrange and size your model and set options for the printer to follow. All makerspace FDM printers can be printed to via Orca Slicer.

<big><big>Looking For How To Print? Check out [[Printing with Orca Slicer]]</big></big>

== Available 3D Printers ==
For information on safety and [[PPE]] requirements for each machine in the MakerSpace, see the [[Safety and Manuals|Job Hazard Analysis]] forms.

[[Bambu P1 Series]]

[[Creality Ender 3]]

[[Creality Ender 5]]

[[Bambu X1 Series]] (advanced)
 

== Test Files ==
[https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/top-ten-prints-to-calibrate-your-3d-printer?utm_source=MatterHackers+Newsletter&utm_campaign=5c1691fac3-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2019_02_26_06_41_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_dccd3cdce8-5c1691fac3-127501653 Matter Hackers] has a collection of test files that are useful after repairing or re-calibrating a printer. Here's another version of the description

[[File:Matter_Hackers_3d_printer_tests.pdf]]

These are a great way to compare two different print settings or brands of filament.
[[File:Print_test.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Test prints for retraction and overhang]]
[[File:1_MAKE_Robot_V6.stl]]

[[File:2_XY-test.stl]]

[[File:2_XY-test-1mmWall.stl]]

[[File:3_TopSurfaceQuality.stl]]

[[File:4_DimmensionalAccuracy.stl]]

[[File:5_overhang_test.stl]]

[[File:6_bridging_test.stl]]

[[File:7_negative_space_tolerance_test.stl]]

[[File:10_support-Deeper.stl]]

[[File:11_Z_resonance_test.stl]]

[[File:12_retraction_performance_test.stl]]

[[File:13_Squareness.stl]]

[[File:14_BigBed.stl]]

== 3d Printing Problems ==
[http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide 3dVerkstan] has a fantastic guide to diagnosing print failures. It is specifically written for Ultimaker printers, but the information applies to any type of 3d printer.

[https://www.simplify3d.com/ Simplify 3D] has created an extremely helpful [https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#lines-on-the-side-of-print Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide].

[http://reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page RepRap] also has a helpful wiki which contains a [http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide].

Printing with Orca Slicer

2023-08-28T01:17:41Z

Bhermanoff:

[[File:Bambus.jpg|399px|thumb|left|Bambu Printer Shelf]]
[[File:Enders.jpg|450px|thumb|center|Ender Printer Shelf]]
The Ender printers are equipped each with their own OctoPrint Server. This server allows for prints to be sent directly from our 3D printing computer located next to the Ender Printers.
The Bambu P1 and X1 series printers are equipped with an onboard printserver through BambuCloud, '''OrcaSlicer can Print to any of our printers through these services.'''

We require that you slice and start printing from OrcaSlicer on our 3D printing computer, which is configured specifically for our printers.

== Creating or Opening a Project ==
[[File:OrcaMenu.jpg|thumb|left| Maybe you are designing a product, and are making multiple revisions are requiring the same settings. Saving a project file and just modifying the model inside the project may prove efficient.]]

From the Homescreen, you can create a new project, or open an existing one. Projects contain not just STL files, but all modified settings for a job.

== Adding Files ==
[[File:Orca new project.jpg|500px|thumb|center]]
With a blank (new) project, you will be presented with the '''Prepare Screen'''. One empty plate will be shown.

To start, drag your STL or 3MF file onto the new plate, or use File->Import.

You can position, rotate, scale, and mirror your print using the top tool panel. As well as autoarrange and duplicate models by right clicking them.

== Selecting Printer and Filament ==

The most important configuration that must be made is selecting the printer and filament type.

Find the printer you want, and set the profile at the top left of the screen. Bambu Printers all share profiles between their respective model, while Ender series are individual.
'''If printing to a Bambu printer, you will select the exact printer # later.'''
[[File:Importantorcamenu.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Using the top bar, you can change the desired printer, filament type, and slicer settings. ]]
[[File:P1pbasic.jpg|200px|thumb|center| For example, if you wish to print to '''P1S-2''', you would first look behind the printer and take note of what filament is loaded. In this case it is be PLA Basic]]

Select an open printer from the dropdown list, and make sure you are setting all 3 dropdowns!
* '''Printer: The printer you are printing to!''' Note that for Bambu printers, the exact printer is not selected here, just make sure to get the model name right!
* '''Bed: The Bed type of the printer''' All our printers (except the [[Bambu X1 Series]]) use Textured PEI Beds.
* '''Filament: What's loaded!''' Make sure this is the same as what is loaded! We provide PLA for free, if you have a specific type or color of filament, bring your own in and ask a FabTech to load it for you!
* '''Print Profile''' This determines which print profile to base your slice settings off of. Standard is good for most! To learn more about slice settings keep reading.

== Slicing Settings ==

On the left panel of Orca are slicer settings. These determine many physical properties of your print, as well as the properties of the printer. '''If you are a beginner, and we recommend turning off the "advanced" slider on Orca, this will reduce accessible settings to the most changed ones.''' Talk to a FabTech to learn more about advanced features if you want to get a specific property out of your print.

=== Quality ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102018.jpg|140px|thumb|left]]
[[File:.1 vs .2 layer height.jpg|thumb|center|'''On the Left: .1mm layer height, On the Right: .2mm''' Notice the increased "stairstepping" on the hull and top surface of the boat]]
The '''Layer Height''' of a print determines the vertical resolution of your print, with a lower value taking more slices of the print. This drastically increases and decreases print time, and is the basis for most profiles.

=== Strength ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102034.jpg|200px|thumb|left]]
To decrease plastic use and print time, all of our prints are mostly hollow on the inside. To influence the properties of the inside your prints, you can change your infill settings.

'''Sparse infill density''' influences how much of your model is plastic on the inside. We recommend this be low unless you truly need a strong part. This setting will '''greatly''' increase print time and plastic usage.

[[File:15 vs 40 infill.jpg|400px|thumb|center|'''On the Left: 40% infill density. On the Right: 15% infill density''' Don't overdo infill! 15% is incredibly strong already! Don't waste plastic unless you have a very structural part.]]

<big>Infill Patterns</big>

'''Triangles''' is an infill pattern consisting of triangles, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the XY plane.

'''Gyroid''' is an infill pattern consisting of a rotating sine wave, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the Z axis.

'''Cubic''' is an infill pattern consisting of squares, this pattern is great if you are looking for a fast print speed, but still need the print to be relatively strong

'''Lightning''' is an infill pattern that models itself after an upside-down lightning bolt. This pattern uses close to no infill unless absolutely necessary! This is the fastest infill pattern, and is amazing if you just need a model that prints as fast as possible, or if you don't need your print to be strong and want to save plastic!

<big>Walls</big>

Walls are the outer-most section of your print, and are what you see on the outside. They also can influence the strength of your prints. '''If you opt to have thicker walls, you will have much stronger prints.''' If you have a print that has some smaller features that need to be strong, '''creating thicker walls can be much more effective than increasing infill''' for increasing part strength .

=== Supports ===
[[File:Support.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Supports on and off, these will be difficult to get off but are necessary for overhangs! The boat model doesn't have too much overhanging structure, so it probably isn't necessary here]]

'''If your print has any overhanging structure, you will need supports.''' We recommend using Tree supports if they are suitable for your print. Once you slice, you can check the preview to see if your tree supports support your print as necessary. Otherwise, you will need to use the default support structure.

Additionally, you can use the '''support painting tool''' along with (manual) support types to add or block supports onto specific regions of your print.

=== Build Plate Adhesion ===
Brim adds an extra bit of plastic on the first layer of your print. '''This can help with small objects not sticking to the bed and moving during printing.''' Orca Slicer has its '''auto brim setting on by default''', but if you find that you want to manually disable or enable a brim on a print you can do so from the '''other''' tab.

Having any Build Plate Adhesion settings turned on will decrease the available area to print on. '''If you need every last millimeter of the print bed, disable Build Plate Adhesion.
'''
== Sending Prints to a Printer ==
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102903.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Make sure to select the right printer! ]]
Once you slice your model, we recommend you '''take a look at the preview screen''' to see a preview of your print settings. You can drag the right side bar down to see inside your prints layers, and get a look at what your infill looks like.
'''This is also a great way to verify your supports are sufficient''' for your model.

After you have checked your preview, you can '''select "Print" from the top right'''. This will send your print to the printer you have selected, or prompt you to select a specific printer if its a Bambu.

Make sure to '''fill out a print card''' with your name, phone #, print name, duration, and start time.
[[File:Cardp1.JPG.jpg|300px|thumb|center|Stick around once you start your print, make sure the first layer goes down ok! Most failures happen in the first 10 min.]]

File:Enders.jpg

2023-08-28T01:15:28Z

Bhermanoff:

ender shelf

File:Bambus.jpg

2023-08-28T01:14:09Z

Bhermanoff:

Bambu Printers

File:Cardp1.JPG.jpg

2023-08-28T01:09:02Z

Bhermanoff:

card

File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102903.jpg

2023-08-28T01:07:17Z

Bhermanoff:

printer

File:Support.jpg

2023-08-28T01:02:46Z

Bhermanoff:

Support

Printing with Orca Slicer

2023-08-28T00:59:24Z

Bhermanoff: Created page with "The Ender printers are equipped each with their own OctoPrint Server. This server allows for prints to be sent directly from our 3D printing computer located next to the Ender..."

The Ender printers are equipped each with their own OctoPrint Server. This server allows for prints to be sent directly from our 3D printing computer located next to the Ender Printers.
The Bambu P1 and X1 series printers are equipped with an onboard printserver through BambuCloud, '''OrcaSlicer can Print to any of our printers through these services.'''

We require that you slice and start printing from OrcaSlicer on our 3D printing computer, which is configured specifically for our printers.

== Creating or Opening a Project ==
[[File:OrcaMenu.jpg|thumb|left| Maybe you are designing a product, and are making multiple revisions are requiring the same settings. Saving a project file and just modifying the model inside the project may prove efficient.]]

From the Homescreen, you can create a new project, or open an existing one. Projects contain not just STL files, but all modified settings for a job.

== Adding Files ==
[[File:Orca new project.jpg|500px|thumb|center]]
With a blank (new) project, you will be presented with the '''Prepare Screen'''. One empty plate will be shown.

To start, drag your STL or 3MF file onto the new plate, or use File->Import.

You can position, rotate, scale, and mirror your print using the top tool panel. As well as autoarrange and duplicate models by right clicking them.

== Selecting Printer and Filament ==

The most important configuration that must be made is selecting the printer and filament type.

Find the printer you want, and set the profile at the top left of the screen. Bambu Printers all share profiles between their respective model, while Ender series are individual.
'''If printing to a Bambu printer, you will select the exact printer # later.'''
[[File:Importantorcamenu.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Using the top bar, you can change the desired printer, filament type, and slicer settings. ]]
[[File:P1pbasic.jpg|200px|thumb|center| For example, if you wish to print to '''P1S-2''', you would first look behind the printer and take note of what filament is loaded. In this case it is be PLA Basic]]

Select an open printer from the dropdown list, and make sure you are setting all 3 dropdowns!
* '''Printer: The printer you are printing to!''' Note that for Bambu printers, the exact printer is not selected here, just make sure to get the model name right!
* '''Bed: The Bed type of the printer''' All our printers (except the [[Bambu X1 Series]]) use Textured PEI Beds.
* '''Filament: What's loaded!''' Make sure this is the same as what is loaded! We provide PLA for free, if you have a specific type or color of filament, bring your own in and ask a FabTech to load it for you!
* '''Print Profile''' This determines which print profile to base your slice settings off of. Standard is good for most! To learn more about slice settings keep reading.

== Slicing Settings ==

On the left panel of Orca are slicer settings. These determine many physical properties of your print, as well as the properties of the printer. '''If you are a beginner, and we recommend turning off the "advanced" slider on Orca, this will reduce accessible settings to the most changed ones.''' Talk to a FabTech to learn more about advanced features if you want to get a specific property out of your print.

=== Quality ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102018.jpg|140px|thumb|left]]
[[File:.1 vs .2 layer height.jpg|thumb|center|'''On the Left: .1mm layer height, On the Right: .2mm''' Notice the increased "stairstepping" on the hull and top surface of the boat]]
The '''Layer Height''' of a print determines the vertical resolution of your print, with a lower value taking more slices of the print. This drastically increases and decreases print time, and is the basis for most profiles.

=== Strength ===
[[File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102034.jpg|200px|thumb|left]]
To decrease plastic use and print time, all of our prints are mostly hollow on the inside. To influence the properties of the inside your prints, you can change your infill settings.

'''Sparse infill density''' influences how much of your model is plastic on the inside. We recommend this be low unless you truly need a strong part. This setting will '''greatly''' increase print time and plastic usage.

[[File:15 vs 40 infill.jpg|400px|thumb|center|'''On the Left: 40% infill density. On the Right: 15% infill density''' Don't overdo infill! 15% is incredibly strong already! Don't waste plastic unless you have a very structural part.]]

<big>Infill Patterns</big>

'''Triangles''' is an infill pattern consisting of triangles, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the XY plane.

'''Gyroid''' is an infill pattern consisting of a rotating sine wave, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the Z axis.

'''Cubic''' is an infill pattern consisting of squares, this pattern is great if you are looking for a fast print speed, but still need the print to be relatively strong

'''Lightning''' is an infill pattern that models itself after an upside-down lightning bolt. This pattern uses close to no infill unless absolutely necessary! This is the fastest infill pattern, and is amazing if you just need a model that prints as fast as possible, or if you don't need your print to be strong and want to save plastic!

<big>Walls</big>

Walls are the outer-most section of your print, and are what you see on the outside. They also can influence the strength of your prints. '''If you opt to have thicker walls, you will have much stronger prints.''' If you have a print that has some smaller features that need to be strong, '''creating thicker walls can be much more effective than increasing infill''' for increasing part strength .

=== Supports ===
If your print has any overhanging structure, you will need supports. We recommend using Tree supports if they are suitable for your print. Once you slice, you can check the preview to see if your tree supports support your print as necessary. Otherwise, you will need to use the default support structure.

=== Build Plate Adhesion ===

If your print does not have much surface that is touching the bed, we recommend you switch on "Brim" in the Build Plate Adhesion settings which will add material surrounding the base of your print to increase adhesion. Otherwise, you should use "Skirt" adhesion. This will draw a line around your print to aid the FabTechs in knowing when the printer needs service.

Having any Build Plate Adhesion settings turned on will decrease the available area to print on. If you need every last millimeter of the print bed, disable Build Plate Adhesion.

== Sending Prints to a Printer ==

Once you slice your model, we recommend you take a look at the preview screen of Cura to see a preview of your print settings. You can drag the right side bar down to see inside your prints layers, and get a look at what your infill looks like.
This is also a great way to verify your supports are sufficient for your model.

After you have checked your preview, you can select "Print With Octoprint" from the bottom right menu. This will send your print to the printer you have selected. If this button is not working, grab a FabTech!

Make sure to fill out a print card with your name, phone #, print name, duration, and start time and place it on the red slot marked "CARD"

File:15 vs 40 infill.jpg

2023-08-28T00:54:18Z

Bhermanoff:

15 vs 40 infill

File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102034.jpg

2023-08-28T00:53:47Z

Bhermanoff:

strength

File:Screenshot 2023-08-25 102018.jpg

2023-08-28T00:50:29Z

Bhermanoff:

quality

File:.1 vs .2 layer height.jpg

2023-08-28T00:48:18Z

Bhermanoff:

.1 vs .2 layer height

3D Printing

2023-08-28T00:38:24Z

Bhermanoff: /* Available 3D Printers */

[[File:3dprintexample.JPG|250px|thumb|right|Example of a 3D print on the [[LulzBot TAZ 5]], immediately after completion]]
3D printing is a modern rapid prototyping technique in which a solid object is created through a layered deposition process. 3D printing is referred to as an "additive manufacturing" technique, as instead of taking material away from a stock piece in order to create a desired object, such as in milling or turning manufacturing techniques, the material for the object is added by the printing process. 3D printing techniques make it very simple to quickly create both complex and simple objects.

The 3D printers available in the MakerSpace are all Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) printers, meaning that to create the desired part, molten polymer (melted plastic) is "extruded" into a thin molten filament, which is deposited in the desired shape. The hot plastic fuses with previously deposited layers, creating the desired part. Due to the nature of molten plastic, FFF 3d printed parts have a degree of "slop" that is difficult to eliminate, so a different manufacturing technique, such as [[laser cutting]] or [[CNC Routing/Milling]], is likely necessary for parts that require very high degrees of accuracy.

The Tulane MakerSpace contains [https://www.creality.com/pages/products?collection=Ender+Series&spm=..index.header_1.1&spm_prev=..product_ce00868d-efe2-4fa8-9168-240e7c3b3cd1.header_1.1 Creality Ender] and [https://bambulab.com/en BambuLab P1 and X1 Series] 3d printers with heated beds to allow for any extruded 1.75mm filament. ABS filament allows for better [[finishing effects]] (such as [[Finishing_effects#Smoothing|smoothing]]), but PLA provides a more rigid part and has has much better adherence to the print bed. There are other advantages and disadvantages to both. Cost is the same (currently ~$18 per kg). The Makerspace currently supplies free PLA for use, other filaments and specific colors should be user supplied.

While ABS and PLA are the most commonly used filaments, many other products exist with special qualities (flexible) or appearance (wood, ceramic). There is a good summary and comparison at [https://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare MatterHackers]. MakerSpace users wishing to try out these filaments should procure them and work with a Fab Tech to load them onto the printer.

The standard [[slicing software]] favored for these printers is [[Orca Slicer]], which allows you to arrange and size your model and set options for the printer to follow. All makerspace FDM printers can be printed to via Orca Slicer.

== Available 3D Printers ==
For information on safety and [[PPE]] requirements for each machine in the MakerSpace, see the [[Safety and Manuals|Job Hazard Analysis]] forms.

[[Bambu P1 Series]]

[[Creality Ender 3]]

[[Creality Ender 5]]

[[Bambu X1 Series]] (advanced)
 

== Test Files ==
[https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/top-ten-prints-to-calibrate-your-3d-printer?utm_source=MatterHackers+Newsletter&utm_campaign=5c1691fac3-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2019_02_26_06_41_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_dccd3cdce8-5c1691fac3-127501653 Matter Hackers] has a collection of test files that are useful after repairing or re-calibrating a printer. Here's another version of the description

[[File:Matter_Hackers_3d_printer_tests.pdf]]

These are a great way to compare two different print settings or brands of filament.
[[File:Print_test.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Test prints for retraction and overhang]]
[[File:1_MAKE_Robot_V6.stl]]

[[File:2_XY-test.stl]]

[[File:2_XY-test-1mmWall.stl]]

[[File:3_TopSurfaceQuality.stl]]

[[File:4_DimmensionalAccuracy.stl]]

[[File:5_overhang_test.stl]]

[[File:6_bridging_test.stl]]

[[File:7_negative_space_tolerance_test.stl]]

[[File:10_support-Deeper.stl]]

[[File:11_Z_resonance_test.stl]]

[[File:12_retraction_performance_test.stl]]

[[File:13_Squareness.stl]]

[[File:14_BigBed.stl]]

== 3d Printing Problems ==
[http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide 3dVerkstan] has a fantastic guide to diagnosing print failures. It is specifically written for Ultimaker printers, but the information applies to any type of 3d printer.

[https://www.simplify3d.com/ Simplify 3D] has created an extremely helpful [https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#lines-on-the-side-of-print Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide].

[http://reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page RepRap] also has a helpful wiki which contains a [http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide].

File:Importantorcamenu.jpg

2023-08-28T00:33:55Z

Bhermanoff:

select 3

File:P1pbasic.jpg

2023-08-28T00:30:02Z

Bhermanoff:

p1p

File:Orca new project.jpg

2023-08-28T00:19:29Z

Bhermanoff:

blank plate

File:OrcaMenu.jpg

2023-08-28T00:15:40Z

Bhermanoff:

Main menu

Creality Ender 3

2023-08-28T00:07:50Z

Bhermanoff:

[[File:Ender 3.jpg|thumb|An Ender 3 V2 Printer]]

Our workhorse printers are Creality Ender 3 V2 Neos. These printers are inexpensive to maintain, and prove to have exceptional print quality depending on settings. While the Bambu P1 series printers are fast, the enders offer slow but exceptional print quality. If you are planning on starting a print, and then coming back the next day to pick it up, the Enders are a great choice. '''The P1 series is for ultra-rapid prototyping, the Enders are for long and consistent printing'''

The bed size of our Ender 3 V2's are 220mm X 220mm. The maximum print height is 270mm.

== Printing ==
See [[Printing with Orca Slicer]]
== Maintenance ==

For '''FabTechs only''', if a printer is acting up, take a look at [[Ender 3 Maintenance]].

3D Printing

2023-08-28T00:00:44Z

Bhermanoff:

[[File:3dprintexample.JPG|250px|thumb|right|Example of a 3D print on the [[LulzBot TAZ 5]], immediately after completion]]
3D printing is a modern rapid prototyping technique in which a solid object is created through a layered deposition process. 3D printing is referred to as an "additive manufacturing" technique, as instead of taking material away from a stock piece in order to create a desired object, such as in milling or turning manufacturing techniques, the material for the object is added by the printing process. 3D printing techniques make it very simple to quickly create both complex and simple objects.

The 3D printers available in the MakerSpace are all Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) printers, meaning that to create the desired part, molten polymer (melted plastic) is "extruded" into a thin molten filament, which is deposited in the desired shape. The hot plastic fuses with previously deposited layers, creating the desired part. Due to the nature of molten plastic, FFF 3d printed parts have a degree of "slop" that is difficult to eliminate, so a different manufacturing technique, such as [[laser cutting]] or [[CNC Routing/Milling]], is likely necessary for parts that require very high degrees of accuracy.

The Tulane MakerSpace contains [https://www.creality.com/pages/products?collection=Ender+Series&spm=..index.header_1.1&spm_prev=..product_ce00868d-efe2-4fa8-9168-240e7c3b3cd1.header_1.1 Creality Ender] and [https://bambulab.com/en BambuLab P1 and X1 Series] 3d printers with heated beds to allow for any extruded 1.75mm filament. ABS filament allows for better [[finishing effects]] (such as [[Finishing_effects#Smoothing|smoothing]]), but PLA provides a more rigid part and has has much better adherence to the print bed. There are other advantages and disadvantages to both. Cost is the same (currently ~$18 per kg). The Makerspace currently supplies free PLA for use, other filaments and specific colors should be user supplied.

While ABS and PLA are the most commonly used filaments, many other products exist with special qualities (flexible) or appearance (wood, ceramic). There is a good summary and comparison at [https://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare MatterHackers]. MakerSpace users wishing to try out these filaments should procure them and work with a Fab Tech to load them onto the printer.

The standard [[slicing software]] favored for these printers is [[Orca Slicer]], which allows you to arrange and size your model and set options for the printer to follow. All makerspace FDM printers can be printed to via Orca Slicer.

== Available 3D Printers ==
For information on safety and [[PPE]] requirements for each machine in the MakerSpace, see the [[Safety and Manuals|Job Hazard Analysis]] forms.

[[Bambu P1 Series]]

[[Creality Ender 3]]

[[Creality Ender 5]]

[[Bambu X1 Series (advanced)]]
 

== Test Files ==
[https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/top-ten-prints-to-calibrate-your-3d-printer?utm_source=MatterHackers+Newsletter&utm_campaign=5c1691fac3-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2019_02_26_06_41_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_dccd3cdce8-5c1691fac3-127501653 Matter Hackers] has a collection of test files that are useful after repairing or re-calibrating a printer. Here's another version of the description

[[File:Matter_Hackers_3d_printer_tests.pdf]]

These are a great way to compare two different print settings or brands of filament.
[[File:Print_test.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Test prints for retraction and overhang]]
[[File:1_MAKE_Robot_V6.stl]]

[[File:2_XY-test.stl]]

[[File:2_XY-test-1mmWall.stl]]

[[File:3_TopSurfaceQuality.stl]]

[[File:4_DimmensionalAccuracy.stl]]

[[File:5_overhang_test.stl]]

[[File:6_bridging_test.stl]]

[[File:7_negative_space_tolerance_test.stl]]

[[File:10_support-Deeper.stl]]

[[File:11_Z_resonance_test.stl]]

[[File:12_retraction_performance_test.stl]]

[[File:13_Squareness.stl]]

[[File:14_BigBed.stl]]

== 3d Printing Problems ==
[http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide 3dVerkstan] has a fantastic guide to diagnosing print failures. It is specifically written for Ultimaker printers, but the information applies to any type of 3d printer.

[https://www.simplify3d.com/ Simplify 3D] has created an extremely helpful [https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#lines-on-the-side-of-print Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide].

[http://reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page RepRap] also has a helpful wiki which contains a [http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide].

People

2023-08-09T03:03:46Z

Bhermanoff:

==David E Robinson==
===Executive Director===

'''Email:''' [mailto:david@tulane.edu david@tulane.edu]

'''Phone:''' (504) 865-5866

'''Office:''' MakerSpace Office

==John Sullivan==
===Assistant Executive Director===
[[File:Sullivan.jpg|left|frame]]
'''Email:''' [mailto:johns@tulane.edu johns@tulane.edu]

'''Phone:''' (504) 865-5853

'''Office:''' 533 Lindy Boggs Building

[https://sse.tulane.edu/bme/staff More info]

==''Fabrication Technicians''==

<li style="display: inline-block;"> [[File:Ninjas.jpg|600px|thumb|left|frame|Scot Ackerman and the 2019 Maker Ninjas -- photo: Sally Asher]] </li>

The Scot Ackerman MakerSpace is run by student workers. We call them Fabrication Technicians, or Fab Techs for short. They are helpful and knowledgeable, but their first obligation is to ensure safe operation of the MakerSpace. In the past, frequent users of the MakerSpace were identified by current Fab Techs and were invited to apply for a position as a new Fabrication Technician. To be considered for hiring, a user must first demonstrate broad basic competencies by completing the [https://makerspace.tulane.edu/index.php/Safety_and_Manuals#Training requirements] for these credentials:
* Digital Tools
* Wood 1
* Metal 1
* Metal 2

This will allow use of all tools in the main shop area and Mezzanine, except for the water jet cutter, CNC Lathe and CNC Mill. All prospective Fab Tech candidates are interviewed, and their project portfolios are reviewed.

During their first year of work as a Fab Tech, the following additional competencies must be earned in order to continue as a Fab Tech in the second year:
* Either Wood 2 or [CNC-Lathe and CNC-Mill]
* Water Jet

Newly hired Fab Techs start at a salary of $10.00 per hour. After satisfactorily working for two semesters, their pay will increase by $1.00 per hour. Fab Techs who have completed '''all''' of the
[http://makerspace.tulane.edu/index.php/Safety_and_Manuals#Training trainings] will receive an additional $1.00 per hour, so that a fully trained Fab Tech with at least 2 semesters of experience will earn $12.00 per hour.

<gallery heights=200px caption="Current and past Fabrication Technicians, with year of graduation. E-mail address is shown for current Fab Techs">
File:Blank.jpg|'''Kleanthous, Tess''' (tkleanthous@tulane.edu)
File:Blank.jpg|'''Lachman, Jessica''' (jlachman@tulane.edu)
File:Blank.jpg|'''Li, Jason''' (jli64@tulane.edu)
File:Blank.jpg|'''Saul, Chavez''' (schavez2@tulane.edu)
File:Blank.jpg|'''Shepard-Davis, Koios''' (ksheparddavis@tulane.edu)
File:Blank.jpg|'''Wisinski, Maddie''' (mwisinski@tulane.edu)
File:Blank.jpg|'''Ben Yifrach''' (byifrach@tulane.edu)
File:Blank.jpg|'''Kate Scalet''' (kscalet@tulane.edu)
File:Blank.jpg|'''Caroline Sawrey''' (csawrey@tulane.edu)
File:Blank.jpg|'''Alec Rovner''' (arovner@tulane.edu)
File:Bennett.jpg|'''Bennett Hermanoff''' (bhermanoff@tulane.edu)
File:Blank.jpg|'''Morgan Hearne''' (mhearne@tulane.edu)
File:Blank.jpg|'''Zack Chapman''' (zchapman@tulane.edu)
File:Blank.jpg|'''Charles Tyndal''' (ctyndal@tulane.edu)
File:CulpCrop.jpg|'''Caroline Culp''' (cculp@tulane.edu)
File:Audrey_Buck_(2).jpg|'''Audrey Buck''' (abuck4@tulane.edu)
File:Blank.jpg|'''Alan Shepardson''' 2022
File:Blank.jpg|'''Asher Burkin''' 2022
File:Blank.jpg|'''Sidney Astl''' 2022
File:Elena_Lompado.jpg|'''Elena Lompado''' 2022
File:Blank.jpg|'''Josh Prager''' 2022
File:Blank.jpg|'''Brock Headen''' 2022
File:Addie_Duncan.jpg|Adriana L Duncan, 2021
File:Blank.jpg|Jarrett Bealer, 2021
File:GreensteinCrop2.jpg|Lewis E Greenstein, 2021
File:JohnsonCrop.jpg|Robert Johnson, 2021
file:Blank.jpg|Will Kadison, 2021
File:LuciaCrop.jpg|Dylan A Lucia, '20, *21
File:PimentaCrop.jpg|Ian J Pimenta, 2021
File:RubensteinCrop.jpg|Kyra Rubinstein, 2021
File:AuCrop.jpg|Timothy Au, 2020
File:BeldenCrop.jpg|Samuel W Belden, 2020
File:BranchCrop.jpg|Kaleb Branch, 2020
File:BushCrop.jpg|Meghan E Bush, 2020
File:DavisCrop.jpg|Claire Davis, 2020
File:GrieshopCop.jpg|Cole Greishop, 2020
File:MirnicsCrop.jpg|Marco I Mirnics, 2020
File:OConnorCrop.jpg|Mason O'Connor, 2020
File:RoseCrop.jpg|Victoria A Rose, 2020
File:SajjadiCrop2.jpg|Afsheen Sajjadi, 2020
File:MillsCrop.jpg|Andrei Mills, 2020
File:MenaCrop.jpg|Daniel Mena Caroll, 2019
File:MooreCrop.png|Elise M Moore, 2019
File:YaoCrop.jpg|Joshua E Yao, 2019
File:ArtztCrop2.jpg|Luke Artzt, 2019
File:NguyenNCrop.jpg|Nathan P Nguyen, 2019
File:BegemanCrop.jpg|Andrew W Begeman, 2018
File:PraderCrop.jpg|Antonius Prader, 2018
File:SchoberCrop.jpg|Chase B Schober, 2018
File:CaponeCrop2.jpg|Daniel Capone, 2018
File:GastaCrop.jpg|Ethan W Gasta, 2018
File:SchusterCrop.jpg|Jason D Schuster, 2018
File:SmithLCrop.jpg|Lianna Mae Smith, 2018
File:NiceCrop.jpg|Matthew W Nice, 2018
File:WoodyCrop.jpg|Max Woody, 2018
File:HoltCrop.jpg|Sarah E Holt, 2018
File:SteffensCrop.jpg|Theodore Steffens, 2018
File:Brown_AlexCrop.jpg|Alexander Brown, 2017
File:ZhangCrop.jpg|Allen Zhang, 2017
File:LewsonCrop2.jpg|Ben Lewson, 2017
File:WhiteCrop.jpg|Celeste White, 2017
File:O'CainCrop.jpg|Cody O'Cain, 2017
File:Seaton_DaleyCrop.jpg|Daley Seaton, 2017
File:Kearing_DavidCrop.jpg|David Kearing, 2017
File:SweenyCrop.jpg|Joe Sweeny, 2017
File:Nguyen_Jon_Crop.jpg|Jonathan Nguyen, 2017
File:FishelCrop.jpg|Ryan Fishel, 2017
File:McCrady2Crop.jpg|Taylor McCrady, 2017
File:McMahonCrop.jpg|Francis McMahon, 2016
File:Bishop_Van_Horn_Crop.jpg|Maddy Bishop-Van Horn, 2016
</gallery>

==Faculty & Staff Collaborators==

Faculty and staff members who would like to be associated with the MakerSpace should contact David Robinson.

==Maker Profiles==
[[Ben Lewson]]

[[Cody O'Cain]]

[[Chase Schober]]

[[Jason Schuster]]

[[Dylan Lucia]]

[[Afsheen Sajjadi]]

[[Lewis Greenstein]]

[[Ian Pimenta]]

[[Asher Burkin]]

File:Bennett.jpg

2023-08-09T03:03:20Z

Bhermanoff:

Bennett

File:Bennett Hermanoff.jpg

2023-08-09T02:18:36Z

Bhermanoff:

Portrait of Bennett

Ender 3 Maintenance

2023-02-03T15:53:18Z

Bhermanoff:

== Leveling, Tramming, and Z-Offset ==

'''I know you want to just change the Z-Offset, Dont!''' The Z offset really shouldn't change unless the distance from the nozzle to the bed level probe changes. Please please try tramming and re-meshing before changing the Z offset.

Okay, with that out of the way, lets discuss the multiple leveling mechanisms of the Ender printers.

First off is bed tramming. This is what we are used to with the Ultimakers and other printers. Bed tramming is the process of using the knobs on the bottom of the bed to ensure the bed is flat with respect to the print gantries.

'''To tram the bed''' Select "Bed Tramming Wizard" from the printer quick settings (located under the 4 big buttons on the main screen) and let the printer do its thing. It will use the ABL (Auto Bed Level) probe to see how out of tram the print bed is, and direct you on how to turn the knobs to fix it. The knobs follow the '''Right Hand Rule''' so turning the knobs counter-clockwise will result in the bed moving up under that knob.

Repeat the tramming wizard until the points are all within .03mm, then proceed with creating a new bed mesh.

=== ABL Mesh ===

The Enders utilize the ABL sensor to compensate for fluctuations in bed height. This is accomplished using the ABL mesh. The printer takes a series of 36 points around the bed and moves the z-head up and down based on those measurements.

Once you have trammed the bed, you should create a new mesh. This will remeasure those 36 points and save them to the printers memory. Do this under Advanced-> Mesh Leveling-> Auto Build Mesh. After the points are collected, you will see a representation of the mesh, '''make sure to hit save to commit these to memory.'''

'''But Bennett? this is only a snapshot of the bed! Wont these points change with use?'''
Yeah, they will. The biggest thing that will happen with use is the bed will slowly come out of tram. Such is the circle of tramming. '''But we do have a solution to at least mitigate this issue!'''

Before every print, the printer will take measurements of the 4 corners of the print bed. It will use these measurements to "tilt" the mesh we made before. This means that the mesh we made should stay pretty accurate for a long time.

==== Take a look at skirts! ====

Skirts have a use more than just being a better purge line. Skirts let us see how level the bed is at a glance. When you take prints off of an ender, take a look at the skirt outline. If it's too dark, or dark in one spot you should tram and remesh the bed.

=== Okay, I trammed and remeshed, but adhesion is still bad! ===

This is where z-offset comes in. Z-offset directly affects the height of the print nozzle relative to the bed. '''Lowering''' the Z-Offset will make the head ''dig in'' more to the print head, '''Raising''' the Z-Offset will make the head go up. We want adhesion, but just barely. Make sure lines drawn next to each other touch. looking at a skirt can be a quick way to set the offset effectively.

On the enders, offset can be adjusted during a print under "tune" and outside of a print under Advanced-> Mesh Leveling.

== Changing Filament ==

The enders have a more manual filament changing process than the Ultimakers. To take out filament, go to ''filament management'' and select the option to remove filament. This will heat up the extruder, and pull the filament out of the head.

After this, press the filament release lever on the left side of the printer (where the extruder motor is) and pull out the remaining filament.

To insert filament, just heat up the extruder and push freshly cut filament through until it comes out the extruder.

== Octoprint Common Errors ==

Ender 3 Maintenance

2023-02-03T01:06:29Z

Bhermanoff: Created page with "== Leveling, Tramming, and Z-Offset == '''I know you want to just change the Z-Offset, Dont!''' The Z offset really shouldn't change unless the distance from the nozzle to th..."

Creality Ender 3

2023-02-02T18:37:34Z

Bhermanoff:

[[File:Ender 3.jpg|thumb|An Ender 3 V2 Printer]]

Our newest and most used printers are Creality Ender 3 V2 Neos. These printers are inexpensive to maintain, and prove to have exceptional print quality depending on settings.

The bed size of our Ender 3 V2's are 220mm X 220mm. The maximum print height is 270mm.

== Printing From Cura ==

The Ender printers are equipped each with their own OctoPrint Server. This server allows for prints to be sent directly from our 3D printing computer located next to the Ender Printers.

We require that you slice and start printing from Cura on our 3D printing computer, which is configured specifically for our printers.

To start, drag your STL or 3MF file onto a cura window, or use File->Import.

You can position, rotate, scale, and mirror your print using the left-side tool panel. As well as autoarrange and duplicate models by right clicking them.

Using the top bar, you can change the desired printer, filament type, and slicer settings.
[[File:Ender Print Select.jpg|frameless|left]]

Select an open Ender printer from the dropdown list, and make sure you are using an "Ender PLA" filament as shown below.
[[File:Screenshot 2023-02-02 114842.jpg|frameless|center]]

== Slicing Settings ==

On the rightmost panel of Cura are slicer settings. These determine many physical properties of your print, as well as the properties of the printer.

[[File:Screenshot 2023-02-02 114908.jpg|thumb|left| Make sure you start by selecting a custom "Ender" profile. '''Do not select a "Default" profile.''' Most people do not need to change settings from these profiles.]]

Start by selecting a Custom profile from the dropdown as shown, then you can make any changes you desire to the slice settings. '''Do not select a "Default" profile.''' The most common setting that may be necessary for your print are supports.

=== Supports ===
If your print has any overhanging structure, you will need supports. We recommend using Tree supports if they are suitable for your print. Once you slice, you can check the preview to see if your tree supports support your print as necessary. Otherwise, you will need to use the default support structure.

=== Build Plate Adhesion ===

If your print does not have much surface that is touching the bed, we recommend you switch on "Brim" in the Build Plate Adhesion settings which will add material surrounding the base of your print to increase adhesion. Otherwise, you should use "Skirt" adhesion. This will draw a line around your print to aid the FabTechs in knowing when the printer needs service.

Having any Build Plate Adhesion settings turned on will decrease the available area to print on. If you need every last millimeter of the print bed, disable Build Plate Adhesion.

=== Infill ===

To decrease plastic use and print time, all of our prints are mostly hollow on the inside. To influence the properties of the inside your prints, you can change your infill settings.

'''Infill Percentage''' influences how much of your model is plastic on the inside. We recommend this be low unless you truly need a strong part. This setting will '''greatly''' increase print time and plastic usage.

'''Triangles''' is an infill pattern consisting of triangles, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the XY plane.

'''Gyroid''' is an infill pattern consisting of a rotating sine wave, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the Z axis.

'''Cubic''' is an infill pattern consisting of squares, this pattern is great if you are looking for a fast print speed, but still need the print to be relatively strong

'''Lightning''' is an infill pattern that models itself after an upside-down lightning bolt. This pattern uses close to no infill unless absolutely necessary! This is the fastest infill pattern, and is amazing if you just need a model that prints as fast as possible, or if you don't need your print to be strong and want to save plastic!

=== Walls ===
Walls are the outer-most section of your print, and are what you see on the outside. They also can influence the strength of your prints. If you opt to have thicker walls, you will have much stronger prints. If you have a print that has some smaller features that need to be strong, creating thicker walls can be much more effective in increasing part strength than just having more infill.

== Sending Prints to a Printer ==

Once you slice your model, we recommend you take a look at the preview screen of Cura to see a preview of your print settings. You can drag the right side bar down to see inside your prints layers, and get a look at what your infill looks like.
This is also a great way to verify your supports are sufficient for your model.

After you have checked your preview, you can select "Print With Octoprint" from the bottom right menu. This will send your print to the printer you have selected. If this button is not working, grab a FabTech!

Make sure to fill out a print card with your name, phone #, print name, duration, and start time and place it on the red slot marked "CARD"

== Maintenance ==

For '''FabTechs only''', if a printer is acting up, take a look at [[Ender 3 Maintenance]].

Creality Ender 3

2023-02-02T18:35:35Z

Bhermanoff: /* Slicing Settings */

Creality Ender 3

2023-02-02T18:35:05Z

Bhermanoff: /* Slicing Settings */

[[File:Ender 3.jpg|thumb|An Ender 3 V2 Printer]]

Our newest and most used printers are Creality Ender 3 V2 Neos. These printers are inexpensive to maintain, and prove to have exceptional print quality depending on settings.

The bed size of our Ender 3 V2's are 220mm X 220mm. The maximum print height is 270mm.

== Printing From Cura ==

The Ender printers are equipped each with their own OctoPrint Server. This server allows for prints to be sent directly from our 3D printing computer located next to the Ender Printers.

We require that you slice and start printing from Cura on our 3D printing computer, which is configured specifically for our printers.

To start, drag your STL or 3MF file onto a cura window, or use File->Import.

You can position, rotate, scale, and mirror your print using the left-side tool panel. As well as autoarrange and duplicate models by right clicking them.

Using the top bar, you can change the desired printer, filament type, and slicer settings.
[[File:Ender Print Select.jpg|frameless|left]]

Select an open Ender printer from the dropdown list, and make sure you are using an "Ender PLA" filament as shown below.
[[File:Screenshot 2023-02-02 114842.jpg|frameless|center]]

== Slicing Settings ==

On the rightmost panel of Cura are slicer settings. These determine many physical properties of your print, as well as the properties of the printer.

[[File:Screenshot 2023-02-02 114908.jpg|thumb|left| Make sure you start by selecting a custom "Ender" profile. '''Do not select a "Default" profile.''' Most people do not need to change settings from these profiles.]]

Start by selecting a Custom profile from the dropdown as shown, then you can make any changes you desire to the slice settings. The most common setting that may be necessary for your print are supports.

=== Supports ===
If your print has any overhanging structure, you will need supports. We recommend using Tree supports if they are suitable for your print. Once you slice, you can check the preview to see if your tree supports support your print as necessary. Otherwise, you will need to use the default support structure.

=== Build Plate Adhesion ===

If your print does not have much surface that is touching the bed, we recommend you switch on "Brim" in the Build Plate Adhesion settings which will add material surrounding the base of your print to increase adhesion. Otherwise, you should use "Skirt" adhesion. This will draw a line around your print to aid the FabTechs in knowing when the printer needs service.

Having any Build Plate Adhesion settings turned on will decrease the available area to print on. If you need every last millimeter of the print bed, disable Build Plate Adhesion.

=== Infill ===

To decrease plastic use and print time, all of our prints are mostly hollow on the inside. To influence the properties of the inside your prints, you can change your infill settings.

'''Infill Percentage''' influences how much of your model is plastic on the inside. We recommend this be low unless you truly need a strong part. This setting will '''greatly''' increase print time and plastic usage.

'''Triangles''' is an infill pattern consisting of triangles, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the XY plane.

'''Gyroid''' is an infill pattern consisting of a rotating sine wave, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the Z axis.

'''Cubic''' is an infill pattern consisting of squares, this pattern is great if you are looking for a fast print speed, but still need the print to be relatively strong

'''Lightning''' is an infill pattern that models itself after an upside-down lightning bolt. This pattern uses close to no infill unless absolutely necessary! This is the fastest infill pattern, and is amazing if you just need a model that prints as fast as possible, or if you don't need your print to be strong and want to save plastic!

=== Walls ===
Walls are the outer-most section of your print, and are what you see on the outside. They also can influence the strength of your prints. If you opt to have thicker walls, you will have much stronger prints. If you have a print that has some smaller features that need to be strong, creating thicker walls can be much more effective in increasing part strength than just having more infill.

== Sending Prints to a Printer ==

Once you slice your model, we recommend you take a look at the preview screen of Cura to see a preview of your print settings. You can drag the right side bar down to see inside your prints layers, and get a look at what your infill looks like.
This is also a great way to verify your supports are sufficient for your model.

After you have checked your preview, you can select "Print With Octoprint" from the bottom right menu. This will send your print to the printer you have selected. If this button is not working, grab a FabTech!

Make sure to fill out a print card with your name, phone #, print name, duration, and start time and place it on the red slot marked "CARD"

Creality Ender 3

2023-02-02T18:34:36Z

Bhermanoff: /* Slicing Settings */

[[File:Ender 3.jpg|thumb|An Ender 3 V2 Printer]]

Our newest and most used printers are Creality Ender 3 V2 Neos. These printers are inexpensive to maintain, and prove to have exceptional print quality depending on settings.

The bed size of our Ender 3 V2's are 220mm X 220mm. The maximum print height is 270mm.

== Printing From Cura ==

The Ender printers are equipped each with their own OctoPrint Server. This server allows for prints to be sent directly from our 3D printing computer located next to the Ender Printers.

We require that you slice and start printing from Cura on our 3D printing computer, which is configured specifically for our printers.

To start, drag your STL or 3MF file onto a cura window, or use File->Import.

You can position, rotate, scale, and mirror your print using the left-side tool panel. As well as autoarrange and duplicate models by right clicking them.

Using the top bar, you can change the desired printer, filament type, and slicer settings.
[[File:Ender Print Select.jpg|frameless|left]]

Select an open Ender printer from the dropdown list, and make sure you are using an "Ender PLA" filament as shown below.
[[File:Screenshot 2023-02-02 114842.jpg|frameless|center]]

== Slicing Settings ==

On the rightmost panel of Cura are slicer settings. These determine many physical properties of your print, as well as the properties of the printer. '''Do not select a "Default" profile.'''

[[File:Screenshot 2023-02-02 114908.jpg|thumb|left| Make sure you start by selecting a custom "Ender" profile. Most people do not need to change settings from these profiles.]]

Start by selecting a Custom profile from the dropdown as shown, then you can make any changes you desire to the slice settings. The most common setting that may be necessary for your print are supports.

=== Supports ===
If your print has any overhanging structure, you will need supports. We recommend using Tree supports if they are suitable for your print. Once you slice, you can check the preview to see if your tree supports support your print as necessary. Otherwise, you will need to use the default support structure.

=== Build Plate Adhesion ===

If your print does not have much surface that is touching the bed, we recommend you switch on "Brim" in the Build Plate Adhesion settings which will add material surrounding the base of your print to increase adhesion. Otherwise, you should use "Skirt" adhesion. This will draw a line around your print to aid the FabTechs in knowing when the printer needs service.

Having any Build Plate Adhesion settings turned on will decrease the available area to print on. If you need every last millimeter of the print bed, disable Build Plate Adhesion.

=== Infill ===

To decrease plastic use and print time, all of our prints are mostly hollow on the inside. To influence the properties of the inside your prints, you can change your infill settings.

'''Infill Percentage''' influences how much of your model is plastic on the inside. We recommend this be low unless you truly need a strong part. This setting will '''greatly''' increase print time and plastic usage.

'''Triangles''' is an infill pattern consisting of triangles, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the XY plane.

'''Gyroid''' is an infill pattern consisting of a rotating sine wave, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the Z axis.

'''Cubic''' is an infill pattern consisting of squares, this pattern is great if you are looking for a fast print speed, but still need the print to be relatively strong

'''Lightning''' is an infill pattern that models itself after an upside-down lightning bolt. This pattern uses close to no infill unless absolutely necessary! This is the fastest infill pattern, and is amazing if you just need a model that prints as fast as possible, or if you don't need your print to be strong and want to save plastic!

=== Walls ===
Walls are the outer-most section of your print, and are what you see on the outside. They also can influence the strength of your prints. If you opt to have thicker walls, you will have much stronger prints. If you have a print that has some smaller features that need to be strong, creating thicker walls can be much more effective in increasing part strength than just having more infill.

== Sending Prints to a Printer ==

Once you slice your model, we recommend you take a look at the preview screen of Cura to see a preview of your print settings. You can drag the right side bar down to see inside your prints layers, and get a look at what your infill looks like.
This is also a great way to verify your supports are sufficient for your model.

After you have checked your preview, you can select "Print With Octoprint" from the bottom right menu. This will send your print to the printer you have selected. If this button is not working, grab a FabTech!

Make sure to fill out a print card with your name, phone #, print name, duration, and start time and place it on the red slot marked "CARD"

Creality Ender 3

2023-02-02T18:32:35Z

Bhermanoff: Created page with "An Ender 3 V2 Printer Our newest and most used printers are Creality Ender 3 V2 Neos. These printers are inexpensive to maintain, and prove to have..."

[[File:Ender 3.jpg|thumb|An Ender 3 V2 Printer]]

Our newest and most used printers are Creality Ender 3 V2 Neos. These printers are inexpensive to maintain, and prove to have exceptional print quality depending on settings.

The bed size of our Ender 3 V2's are 220mm X 220mm. The maximum print height is 270mm.

== Printing From Cura ==

The Ender printers are equipped each with their own OctoPrint Server. This server allows for prints to be sent directly from our 3D printing computer located next to the Ender Printers.

We require that you slice and start printing from Cura on our 3D printing computer, which is configured specifically for our printers.

To start, drag your STL or 3MF file onto a cura window, or use File->Import.

You can position, rotate, scale, and mirror your print using the left-side tool panel. As well as autoarrange and duplicate models by right clicking them.

Using the top bar, you can change the desired printer, filament type, and slicer settings.
[[File:Ender Print Select.jpg|frameless|left]]

Select an open Ender printer from the dropdown list, and make sure you are using an "Ender PLA" filament as shown below.
[[File:Screenshot 2023-02-02 114842.jpg|frameless|center]]

== Slicing Settings ==

On the rightmost panel of Cura are slicer settings. These determine many physical properties of your print, as well as the properties of the printer.

[[File:Screenshot 2023-02-02 114908.jpg|thumb|left| Make sure you start by selecting a custom "Ender" profile. Most people do not need to change settings from these profiles.]]

Start by selecting a Custom profile from the dropdown as shown, then you can make any changes you desire to the slice settings. The most common setting that may be necessary for your print are supports.

=== Supports ===
If your print has any overhanging structure, you will need supports. We recommend using Tree supports if they are suitable for your print. Once you slice, you can check the preview to see if your tree supports support your print as necessary. Otherwise, you will need to use the default support structure.

=== Build Plate Adhesion ===

If your print does not have much surface that is touching the bed, we recommend you switch on "Brim" in the Build Plate Adhesion settings which will add material surrounding the base of your print to increase adhesion. Otherwise, you should use "Skirt" adhesion. This will draw a line around your print to aid the FabTechs in knowing when the printer needs service.

Having any Build Plate Adhesion settings turned on will decrease the available area to print on. If you need every last millimeter of the print bed, disable Build Plate Adhesion.

=== Infill ===

To decrease plastic use and print time, all of our prints are mostly hollow on the inside. To influence the properties of the inside your prints, you can change your infill settings.

'''Infill Percentage''' influences how much of your model is plastic on the inside. We recommend this be low unless you truly need a strong part. This setting will '''greatly''' increase print time and plastic usage.

'''Triangles''' is an infill pattern consisting of triangles, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the XY plane.

'''Gyroid''' is an infill pattern consisting of a rotating sine wave, this pattern is great if you are looking for a print that is strong in the Z axis.

'''Cubic''' is an infill pattern consisting of squares, this pattern is great if you are looking for a fast print speed, but still need the print to be relatively strong

'''Lightning''' is an infill pattern that models itself after an upside-down lightning bolt. This pattern uses close to no infill unless absolutely necessary! This is the fastest infill pattern, and is amazing if you just need a model that prints as fast as possible, or if you don't need your print to be strong and want to save plastic!

=== Walls ===
Walls are the outer-most section of your print, and are what you see on the outside. They also can influence the strength of your prints. If you opt to have thicker walls, you will have much stronger prints. If you have a print that has some smaller features that need to be strong, creating thicker walls can be much more effective in increasing part strength than just having more infill.

== Sending Prints to a Printer ==

Once you slice your model, we recommend you take a look at the preview screen of Cura to see a preview of your print settings. You can drag the right side bar down to see inside your prints layers, and get a look at what your infill looks like.
This is also a great way to verify your supports are sufficient for your model.

After you have checked your preview, you can select "Print With Octoprint" from the bottom right menu. This will send your print to the printer you have selected. If this button is not working, grab a FabTech!

Make sure to fill out a print card with your name, phone #, print name, duration, and start time and place it on the red slot marked "CARD"